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Our Œnothèque
* Œnothèque: a wine library
A look back at our previous Champagnes of the Month
Œnothèque 2025
AUGUST 2025
HERVÉ JESTIN - VINTAGE 2009.
Our “Champagne of the Month” for August 2025 is produced by none other than Hervé Jestin, the man regarded to be one of the foremost exponents of biodynamic champagne production. Hervé began to hone his craft when Chef de Caves at Duval-Leroy in 1995 before moving onto Leclerc Briant. These days, he can be found consulting around the World where his expertise is both highly regarded and highly sought after. It is not just biodynamic winemaking that Hervé is a leading light of but it is also his pioneering approach to bioenergetics which has seen him collaborate with Franck and Isobel Pascal.
Hervé Jestin’s Vintage 2009 Extra Brut is another collaboration, whereby the grapes are provided by three of Champagne’s top growers. The wine consists of 50% Chardonnay from David Leclapart’s estate in Trépail, 25% Meunier from Vincent Laval in Cumières and 25% Pinot Noir from Benoît Lahaye in Bouzy. Naturally, every stage of production is carried out in accordance with the lunar calendar. Vinification took place in oak barriques, the wood coming from the Allier Forest in central France. Malolactic fermentation was allowed and bottling took place on 19th July 2010 following vine flowering and the Summer Solstice. Disgorgement was carried out without dosage on 19th December 2023 whereby it was sealed with a natural cork.
This was Hervé’s fourth vintage and production totalled 6652 bottles
Tasted 15:30 Friday 1st August 2025 (sowing/root day in the lunar 
JULY 2025
DOMAINE DE BICHERY - "EN CHARME DE FIN" (2019).
Our “Champagne of the Month” for July 2025 is produced by Domaine de Bichery, located in Neuville-sur-Seine in the Côte des Bar. The name for the domaine is taken from the lieu-dit “Bichery” where the family home is situated among the family’s vineyards.
Raphaël Piconnet begun his œnology studies at the Lycée Viticole in Beaune, Burgundy, continuing his studies in Switzerland before joining a large conventional chateau in Bordeaux. He returned to Neuville-sur-Seine with wife Hannah in 2013, taking 6 plots of the family estate in 2013. They produced their first wines in 2016 and were quickly picked up by Aline and Eric at Au Bon Manger (now Atôme) in Reims who have long had a reputation for discovering the latest talent. Organic conversion began in 2016 with the first certified harvest being 2019. Annual production is around 20,000 bottles. The family estate profits from grandfather Charles’ massal selection from his own plots. Massal selection is effectively where cuttings are taken from existing vine stock for replanting and growing new vines. This allows the estate to continue growing original vines rather than buying clonal varieties and Raphaël still uses bud wood from these original vines.
“En Charme de Fin” is a vintage wine coming from the domaine’s first organic harvest in 2019 with harvesting taking place on the 6th September. It consists entirely of Chardonnay from each of the 6 plots in Neuville-sur-Seine where th
JUNE 2025
CORBON - AVIZE GRAND CRU CHARDONNAY 2012.
Our “Champagne of the Month” for June 2025 comes from someone we have got to know very well over the years, the one and only Agnès Corbon. She controls the 6 hectare family estate that has a prime 1.1 hectare plot of vines behind the family house in Avize. Other holdings include plots in the Vallée de la Marne at Trélou-sur-Marne, Vandières, Verneuil and Vincelles. Agnès phased out the use of herbicides and pesticides some years ago and encourages enherbement. Sulphur use in the wines is kept low and they are never fined or filtered. Champagne Corbon continues to produce delicious wines with incredible ageing potential.
The millésime 2012 comes from one of Champagne’s great vintage years. As is often the case in great years, conditions were difficult early on. A mild Winter gave way to a freezing February when temperatures plummeted to as low as -20C. A warm March encouraged early budding, so often a problem for a region prone to late frosts. April was wet and those troublesome late frosts finally arrived in May causing a fair amount of damage across the region. Despite the frosts, the early season was wet, very wet in fact; setting a twenty-year record and of course bringing the dreaded mildew with it. The rain finally stopped in mid-July and didn’t return before harvest and temperatures soared, so much so that August saw a heatwave. This assisted in drying the grapes and preventing further disease. 2012’s will have the potential 
MAY 2025
GEOFFROY - CUMIÈRES ROUGE.
Our “Champagne of the Month” for May 2025 is produced by Champagne Geoffroy, located in the town of Aÿ on the banks of the River Marne. The Geoffroy family can trace their vine growing roots back to the 17th century in Cumières but it wasn’t until the 1950s that Roger Geoffroy, aided by wife Julienne began producing their own bottles of champagne. Fast forward to 2008 when Jean-Baptiste and wife Karine moved commercial operations of the family estate from Cumières to Aÿ. The 14 hectares domaine still has its heart firmly rooted in Cumières and their estate also includes plots in Damery, Hautvillers and Fleury-la-Rivière. The 35 plots contain 42% Pinot Noir, 34% Meunier and 24% Chardonnay, all situated on South facing slopes on the Northern banks of the River Marne. Enherbement is encouraged and only organic manure is used for fertilisation. The pressoir is located in Aÿ, which houses two traditional Coquard presses. The presses are gravity fed, ensuring less oxidation of the juice and thus allowing for lower additions of sulphur.
This “Champagne of the Month” is in fact a coteaux. The Cumières Rouge is as the name suggests, a still red wine consisting of 100% Pinot Noir from carefully selected, early ripening plots. The average age of the vines is 45 years and the soil is clay-limestone with a scattering of flint. Vinification and maceration took place in open oak casks (with an immersed cap) prior to 10 months maturation and malolactic fermenta
APRIL 2015
A. BERGÈRE - LES CLOS 2020.
Our “Champagne of the Month” for April 2025 is produced by A. Bergère, a family domaine situated in Fèrebrianges in the Vallée du Petit Morin.
The domaine was founded by Albert Bergère in 1949 and is currently under the stewardship of André and his wife Brigitte who took control of the estate in 1986, expanding their holdings with plots in Étoges and Congy. Later additions were acquired in the Côte des Blancs and Sézannais; thus increasing their Chardonnay stock. In 2104, the fourth generation Adrien took over the winemaking side of the business following his œnology studies. Adrien substantially changed the doimaine’s ethos, buying their first oak barells and concentrating on single plot vinification. In the meantime, Brigitte purchased the impressive real estate on the Avenue de Champagne where the tasting boutique and chambres d’hôtes are now situated and run by Adrien’s sister Annaëlle. Together, Adrien and Annaëlle opened the bar-restaurant “La Cave de l’Avenue”; situated at the town centre end of the Avenue de Champagne.
Today, the estate totals 45 hectares, 35 of which are within the Vallée du Petit Morin in the villages of Fèrebrianges, Étoges and Congy. The remaining 10 hectares can be found in the Sézannais at Bethon and Sézanne as well as the Côte des Blancs at Avize, Chouilly, Cramant, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger and Oger. As well as comprehensive changes to the winemaking, Adrien is changing the way in which the estate is farmed. Aiming for
MARCH 2025
CHAMPAGNE AUGUSTIN - CŒUR SAPHYR.
Our “Champagne of the Month” for March 2025 is from Champagne Augustin of Avenay-Val-d’Or in the Eastern Vallée de la Marne; which today is run by husband and wife team Marc and Emmanuelle. The Augustin history dates back five generations to Andrée Lefèvre who began producing champagne from her own grapes as opposed to selling to the negociants. Quite an unusual process in the early 20th century when many récoltants survived by planting potatoes between the rows of vines and keeping poultry in their yards. Remember, this was a time when the Cru system was in full swing and only those with 100% rated Grand Cru vineyards received the maximum price for their grapes.
Fast forward to the 1970s and 1980s and Marc’s father; Jean took the bold step to eschew the use of chemicals which was taken up so willingly across the appellation. This means that the Augustin vines have not had such pollutants deliberately introduced. Today, the domaine is certified organic and biodynamic with both viticulture and viniculture being carried out in accordance with the lunar calendar. Homeopathic remedies, dynamisation and horse-drawn ploughs are used in the vineyards.
Cœur Saphyr consists of 100% Meunier from Avenay-Val’d’Or. Spontaneous fermentation with indigenous yeasts and no added sulphur. Vinification takes place for 11 months in fûts de chêne; after which it is aged in a modern dolium. A dolium was a Roman earthenware teardrop-shaped vessel (or sapphire-s
FEBRUARY 2025
BERTRAND-DELESPIERRE - L'ÂME DE 2015.
Our “Champagne of the Month” for February 2025 is from a relative newcomer in Champagne Bertrand-Delespierre. Founded in Chamery on the Montagne de Reims in 1980 by husband and wife: Didier Betrand and Chantal Delespierre; the 10 hectare estate is now run by their children Clémence and Adrien. We had heard some good things about the domaine so it was high on the list of ‘must have’s’ for our October ’24 visit.
The estate is under organic conversion with plots in the excellent village of Chamery, Écueil, Villedommange and Montbré. Enherbement is actively encouraged with some mechanised labour in the vineyards. The winery hosts a traditional Coquard press and spontaneous fermentation is used across the range
L’Âme de 2015 translates as the soul of 2015 and is equal parts Chardonnay, Meunier and Pinot noir, born from plots in Chamery, Écueil and villedommange. Only the first press was used and the wine was fermented in stainless steel tanks. Malolactic fermentation was blocked and the wine was neither fined nor filtered. Disgorgement took place in November 2023 whereupon it was sealed with a natural cork and an addition of 2gl dosage.
Tasted 16:15 Sunday 13th April 2025 (sowing/root day in the lunar calendar)
Glassware: Chef and Sommelier – Reveal’Up ‘Intense’.
Appearance: Clear, medium, gold.
Characteristics: Pronounced intensity with primary aromas of honeysuckle, chamomile, apple blossom, lemon blossom, red apple, Chiku, pear, qu
JANUARY 2025
DRAPPIER - QUATTUOR BLANC DE QUATRE BLANCS.
Our “Champagne of the Month” for January 2025 is from Drappier, situated in Urville in Bar-sur-Aube.
Founded in 1808 on the site of the medieval Clairvaux Abbey, this family domaine is run by Michel Drappier ably supported by daughter Charline and sons Hugo and Antoine. The family estate extends to 27 hectares, predominantly located in their home village. Pinot Noir represents 70% of the vine stock with Chardonnay and Meunier accounting for much of the remainder. Over 3.5 hectares of the estate is held over to historical varieties: Arbanne, Blanc Vrai (Pinot Blanc), Fromenteau (Pinot Gris) and Petit Meslier.
In the vineyard, the practice of enherbement is actively encouraged, no herbicides or pesticides are used and the land is worked manually, horses and non-mechanised machinery. Electric tractors are also being added to the stable to further enhance the domaine’s green credentials. As well as being certified organic with Ecocert, Champagne Drappier were the first maison to be certified carbon neutral with Écoact. Two thousand square metres of solar panels account for around 75% of the domaine’s electricity requirements which includes running the electric fleet of tractors and goods vehicles. Electric vehicle charging points are also available to visitors to the estate. A new shape of bottle was designed by Michel which is 15% lighter than a traditional version and an array of recycling projects are in operation. Champagne Drappi
SEPTEMBER 2025
MAXENCE JANISSON - PIE DANSE 2021
Our “Champagne of the Month” for September 2025 is produced by Maxence Janisson from Épernay. Maxence was previously winemaker at the family domaine Janisson-Baradon with brother Cyril prior to them deciding to go their separate ways just a few years ago. This decision has allowed both brothers to follow their own instincts and create domaines entirely within their own visions.
Maxence has retained some of the family plots on the Coteaux Sud-d’Épernay and his solo debut wine comes from the 2021 harvest. “Pie Danse” is a lieu-dit, the name poetically translates as Magpie Dance and the wine consists entirely of Pinot Noir. Certified organic, it has seen minimal intervention with a solitary gram of dosage. Vinification took place in fûts de chêne with regular bâtonnage. The wine is unfiltered and bottling taking place in May 2022. Disgorged 30th March 2024, alcohol is at 12.5 % abv.
Tasted 17:25 Sunday 31st August 2025 (fruit day in the lunar calendar)
Glassware: Chef and Sommelier – Reveal’Up ‘Intense’
Appearance: Clear, deep, lemon.
Characteristics: Pronounced intensity with primary aromas of honeysuckle, jasmine, orange blossom, violet, pomelo, orange rind, orange juice, apricot, peach, nectarine, roasted pineapple, pineapple cubes, cranberry sauce, raspberry, wet raspberry leaf, blackberry and spartan apple. There are secondary notes of sablé, fresh bread dough, toast, vanilla, butterscotch, cloves and nutmeg. Tertiary aromas include
Œnothèque 2024
DECEMBER 2024
CUVÉE DIVINE BY LECLERC BRIANT.
Our “Champagne of the Month” for December 2024 is from Leclerc Briant, located in the capital of Champagne; Épernay.
Spearheaded by Chef de Cave, the one and only Hervé Jestin since 2012, Champagne Leclerc Briant today focuses on organic and biodynamic viticulture, working in harmony with nature to produce some truly exciting wines. The estate was founded by Lucien Leclerc in 1872 in the village of Cumières. In the mid-20th century, in the hands of Lucien’s great-grandson, Bertrand Leclerc, and his wife, Jacqueline Briant, the company moved to Épernay where it can be found today. Rebranding as Leclerc Briant, they began practising biodynamic viticulture, something rarely seen in 1950s Champagne; becoming one of the first in the region to do so and eventually earning certification in the 1980s. Their son Pascal took control of the family domaine in 1990.
Following Pascal’s untimely death, the estate’s vineyard holdings were split up and sold with the company finding new owners: Denise Dupré and Mark Nunelly. Since then and with the masterful help of Hervé Jestin, work to rebuild the estate has continued; reintroducing the forebearers ethos of Biodynamic viticulture and bringing it back to the fore. The winery has also undergone significant renovation to ensure biodynamic and natural principles can be followed. The company did manage to hold onto the jewel in their crown; the single plot “La Croisette” from which it now produces a wine vinifie
NOVEMBER 2024
GEORGES RÉMY - BOUZY ROUGE 2019 "LES VAUDAYANTS".
Our “Champagne of the Month” for November 2024 is produced by Georges Rémy from the Montagne de Reims village of Bouzy. Georges now controls the family estate which consists of 17 parcels totalling 4.7 hectares across the villages of Bouzy, Ambonnay, Louvois and Tauxières.
The vine stock as expected is predominantly Pinot Noir and it is this what brought Georges to our attention many years ago at the Academie du Vin de Bouzy tastings. Here, vignerons from Bouzy showcase their Coteaux “Bouzy Rouge”, still AOC wines alongside rosé champagnes created with the addition of Bouzy Rouge. Georges’ red wines charmed us from the very beginning.
Georges farms organically and in some plots biodynamically including the single plot “Les Vaudayants” donated by his parents from which he has created top quality Pinot noir year after year.
Bouzy Rouge 2019 “Les Vaudayants” was harvested on 21st September 2019 after which it underwent maceration in 500 litre fûts de chêne and then 15 days with 22 months aging in fûts. Bottled on 10th December 2021, production totalled 989 bottles and is certified Biodynamic by Ecocert.
Tasted 15:00 Sunday 27th October 2024 (sowing/root day in the lunar calendar)
Glassware: Lehmann Jamesse Absolus
Appearance: Clear, medium, lemon.
Characteristics: Pronounced intensity with primary aromas of rose, violet, redcurrant, cranberry, raspberry, red cherry, blackberry, bramble, blueberry, black plum and laven
OCTOBER 2024
JEAN-MARC SÉLÈQUE - SOLESSENCE NATURE ÉLEVAGE PROLONGÉ.
Our “Champagne of the Month” for October 2024 is produced by Jean-Marc Sélèque from the village of Pierry on the Côteaux Sud d’Épernay. Jean-Marc controls 9 hectares of vines across seven villages, three on the Côteaux Sud d’Épernay at Pierry, Moussy and Épernay, two in the Vallée de la Marne at Mardeuil and Dizy and finally two on the Côte des Blancs at Vertus and Boursault.
The vine stock consists of 60% Chardonnay with 30% Meunier and 10% Pinot Noir. At the helm since 2008, Jean-Marc set about making a number of changes to farming and production to realize his wine-making goals. These included: conversion to organic and sustainable farming. A state-of-the-art winery was constructed approximately 7 years ago by the slopes of Pierry beneath Chavot. Here Jean-Marc’s Coquard press enables a gentler pressing of the grapes which in turn allows for lower quantities of Sulphur to be added to the wines; cooler fermentation and longer lees contact. He has also increased his stock of oak barrels to allow more vinification in wood. The entire range is fantastic and we have long been fans of Jean-Marc; his wines are a must for any serious enthusiast.
Solessence Nature Élevage Prolongé is a non-vintage wine that as the name suggests, has additional aging in this case; 3 years in the bottle. It is a blend of 50% Chardonnay, 40% Meunier and 10% Pinot Noir from the seven villages listed above. The soil varies from village to villa
SEPTEMBER 2024
CHARLOT-TANNEUX – CUVÉE NICOLAS 1974
Our “Champagne of the Month” for September was produced by Vincent Charlot on behalf of Charlot-Tanneux and his predecessors.
A very special bottle in more ways the one. A rare vintage 1974, containing 0.8l as was often the case back then. 1974 began with a warm winter and early budding but severe frosts damaged large amounts of the buds and the reduced flowering was slow. The summer was sunny and dry but cooler than average and albeit reduced, the harvest was looking to have considerable potential until consistent heavy rains fell for the month up to picking. This precipitated rot and ensured the 1974 harvest was to prove, a very difficult one.
Let’s not forget that in the mid-Seventies, small producer champagnes were not on the World stage like they are today. Even in recent difficult years, fantastic wines have been produced and we can’t help but think we may have missed out on some truly wonderful wines from challenging historic vintages. 1974 is not regarded as a good vintage in Champagne or the rest of France in general but Cuvée Nicolas most certainly defies its origin.
Cuvée Nicolas consists of 100% Meunier from Pierry on the Côteaux Sud d’Épernay with its clay-limestone soils, vinification was in stainless steel tanks using indigenous yeasts. We suspect chaptalisation would have taken place but there was no fining nor filtering and malolactic fermentation was prevented. The wine was disgorged in March 2021 without dosage and 
AUGUST 2024
AGNÈS CORBON – LES BACCHANTES ROSÉ 2020
Our “Champagne of the Month” for August is produced by Agnès Corbon from the village of Avize on the Côte des Blancs. She has 6 hectares at her disposal including 1.1 hectares behind the family home in Avize.
Les Bacchantes Rosé 2020 is playfully named after her father Claude’s favourite facial accessory and the moustache is depicted on the label. 2020 is the second vintage of this rosé which is born from a single plot in Trélou-sur-Marne; appropriately named “Les Vignes d’Avize”; that has a Southern exposure. Consisting of 100% Meunier it was produced using the traditional saignée method with 18 hours of maceration. Vinification took place in oak barrels where the wine remained for 10 months, malolactic fermentation was allowed to occur but there was no cold stabilisation and the wine was neither fined nor filtered. Bottling took place in July 2021 and as with its white counterpart, the sous liège method was used and sealed with a natural cork. Dosage is around 6-6.5gl and alcohol is at 12% abv.
Tasted 17:40 Friday 12th July 2024 (root day in the lunar calendar)
Glassware: Lehmann Jamesse Abolus
Appearance: Clear, deep, pink.
Characteristics: Pronounced intensity with primary aromas of rose, geranium, violet, red apple, quince, apricot, peach, nectarine, lychee, blackcurrant, damson, blueberry, Mirabelle, mandarin, orange juice, orange rind, kirsch, lavender, fennel, wild strawberry, strawberry jam. There are secondary notes
JULY 2024
GEORGES LAVAL - BRUT NATURE 2009.
Our “champagne of the month” for July 2024 is a bottle from our archives, produced by Vincent Laval of Champagne Georges Laval based in Cumières. Vincent is the fourth generation taking control of his family domaine in 1996. The estate extends to 2.5 hectares; farmed organically since the inception of the domaine in 1971. The domaine now holds both organic and biodynamic certification.
The vineyards have a South exposition on the slopes above the River Marne. The soil consists of sandy clay with chalk subsoil. Vincent ensures he waits until the optimal moment to harvest. Ripe grapes mean there is no need for chaptalisation. Sulphur usage is kept to a minimum and of course, indigenous yeasts are used in fermentation. Vinification is carried out in small Burgundian oak barrels and the wines are neither fined nor filtered. Dosages are either kept very low or the wines are undosed, annual production is approximately 14,000 bottles.
Brut Nature is a vintage wine, this being from the 2009 harvest. It consists of 40% Chardonnay, 30% Meunier and 30% Pinot Noir and as previously mentioned, vinification was in fûts de chêne and the wine was neither fined nor filtered. The wine was disgorged on 9th October 2012, without dosage and sealed with a natural cork alcohol is at 12% abv.
Tasted: 13:45 hours Monday 16th June 2024 (sowing and flower day in the biodynamic calendar)
Glassware: Lehmann Jamesse Abolus
Appearance: Clear, pale, gold.
Characteri
JUNE 2024
C.H. PICONNET - 3 CÉPAGES 2015.
Our “champagne of the month” for June 2024 is a bottle from our most recent trip last year, produced by Clement and Agathe Piconnet of Champagne C.H. Piconnet from Neuville-sur-Seine in the Côte des Bar.
The couple took over the family domaine in 2014 coinciding with the construction of a brand-new winery, designed by Clement’s architect sister Lise. Whilst vine growing has long been a part of the family history, it was more recently with grandfather Charles and father Hubert that winemaking was a serious part of the family business. The couple have around 8 hectares at their disposal in the Aubois villages of Neuville-sur-Seine and Gyé-sur-Seine.
C.H. Piconnet are driving towards an ecological and sustainable future beginning the Biodynamic certification process in 2019. They also hold Haute Valeur Environnementale and Viticulture Durable en Champagne certification. Both Clement and Agathe travelled the World in order to expand their winemaking knowledge and to begin building their own ethos. In the vineyard, the couple undertake de-leafing; a practice brought back from experiences in Switzerland. 50-80% of leaves are removed from the Eastern aspect of grape clusters to allow exposure to the rising morning sun. At the same time, leaves on the Western aspect are left in situ in order to protect grapes from the strength of the afternoon sun in high Summer. In the winery, a state-of-the-art pneumatic press allows for a gentle pressing of the 
MAY 2024
JACQUES SELOSSE - INITIAL.
Our “champagne of the month” for May 2024 is a bottle from our archives, produced by a man who needs little introduction to most champagne enthusiasts - Anselme Selosse. Based in the village of Avize, Anselme along with wife Corinne and more recently their son Guillaume, has been in charge of the family domaine - Jacques Selosse since 1980. Immediately upon taking the reins Anselme set about changing the way the domaine worked which was pretty revolutionary back then; lowering yields and beginning to work more naturally in the vineyards. This was at a time when Champagne was a lot less concerned with healthy practices, being driven by quantity over quality.
Anselme studied viticulture in Champagne and then in Beaune, Burgundy and it is these later studies that had a defining impact on his winemaking. Anselme is first and foremost Champenois but begun making champagne in a Burgundian style. Prestige wines of Champagne in Anselme’s early years were defined by their vintage and not their location which was the case in Burgundy. These ideals are widespread among the Champagne region’s winemakers today but in Anselme’s early career he was a pioneer and this led to many winemakers working with him; learning from his ethos. This ultimately kickstarted the meteoric rise in top quality grower-producers/domaines in Champagne. We certainly have a lot to thank Anselme for.
Another early experience was a trip to Jerez in 1972 to study sherry production – the
APRIL 2024
LELARGE-PUGEOT - VRIGNY ROUGE 2014.
You could be forgiven for thinking that our “champagne of the month” for April is missing something, bubbles. This month, we are taking the opportunity to promote one of the region’s still wines: coteaux champenois. Over the last fifteen years, production of these still AOC wines has steadily increased with more and more domaines producing at least one variety. Reds, whites and rosés can be found from each corner of this diverse wine-making region. This month we are looking at a producer we know very well: Lelarge-Pugeot from Vrigny on the Montagne de Reims.
This lovely family have a long winemaking history, dating back to 1799 and it was great to catch up with them once again at harvest time this year. A brief introduction to this excellent domaine: Dominique joined his family in 1985 and instantly began to take a more sustainable route; reducing the use of chemicals in the vineyards at a time when this was rare. By the turn of the Millennium, chemical insecticides were stopped in favour of natural predators, enherbement was encouraged; whilst the use of fungicides and herbicides were drastically reduced.
In 2014 the estate began Biodynamic conversion and gained organic certification in 2015. In 2016 beehives were added to the estate to further encourage biodiversity. A beautiful new cellar extension was completed in 2019 giving the family increased capacity of fûts, foudres and amphorae. In 2020, yet more biodiversity was introduced to 
MARCH 2024
PIERRE GERBAIS - OSMOSE 2011.
Our “champagne of the month” for March 2024 comes from an excellent producer in the Côte des Bar. Champagne Pierre Gerbais are based in the pretty village of Celles-sur-Ource and are particularly well-known for their (very) old vine Pinot Blanc but their other wines are outstanding too.
The Gerbais family have been vinegrowers for eight generations with Aurélien the latest to join the family domaine, bringing Burgundian inspiration with the use of half-hogsheads (demi-muids) for the storage of reserve wines. The family have been producing their own champagnes since the 1930s and their Celles-sur-Ource vineyards are wonderfully positioned at the confluence of four river valleys: Arce, Laignes, Ource and Seine. The South of Champagne is known to bare many resemblances with that of burgundy, particularly the Kimmeridgian soils and propensity for late frosts.
The domaine control 18 hectares of vines with the majority being in Celles-sur-Source. 10 hectares are planted with Pinot Noir, the remainder being split between Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc. The vineyards are farmed sustainably, employing organic principles, including the use organic and indigenous yeasts.
Osmose is a vintage wine, our iteration being 2011 and is made entirely from Chardonnay. Two plots from Celles-sur-Ource are used, the South facing Les Côtes and the North facing Champ Viole. The soil is a marl/limestone mix with of course the famous Kimmeridgian subsoil. Vinification is 
FEBRUARY 2024
FRANCIS BOULARD ET FILLE - PETRAEA XCVII-MMVII.
Our “champagne of the month” for February 2024 is a bottle from our older collection, produced by Champagne Francis Boulard et Fille and purchased on one of our visits to the winery back in 2015. The recent history of the domaine saw Francis, the driving force behind Champagne Raymond Boulard; go his separate way from the family to form Champagne Francis Boulard. In doing so, it gave him and daughter Delphine the opportunity to pursue their goal of conversion to biodynamic viticulture. The pair continued working together until Francis’ retirement a few years ago when the winery was relocated from Cauroy-lès-Hermonville to Faverolles-et-Coëmy; a few kilometres to the south-west.
Delphine is now in control of the domaine’s 7.5 hectares that are predominantly located in the Massif de Saint-Thierry (Cauroy-lès-Hermonville) with holdings also in the Vallée de la Marne (Cuchery, Paradis) and Montagne de Reims (Mailly-Champagne). As stated, the domaine is farmed biodynamically and certified by Ecocert. In the vineyards, vines are pruned short to control the yield which in turn limits the necessity for “green harvesting”. Light ploughing takes place around six times a year in order to control the weed cover which is encouraged for a natural symbiosis. In the winery, a non-interventionist approach is taken. A gentle membrane press is used which helps provide precise control of the pressed juice. Indigenous yeast aids spontaneous alcoho
JANUARY 2024
JACQUES SELOSSE - LES CARELLES.
Our “Champagne of the Month” to welcome in the new year is produced by a man who needs little introduction to most champagne enthusiasts - Anselme Selosse. Based in the village of Avize, Anselme along with wife Corinne and more recently their son Guillaume, has been in charge of the family domaine - Jacques Selosse since 1980. Immediately upon taking the reins Anselme set about changing the way the domaine worked which was pretty revolutionary back then; lowering yields and beginning to work more naturally in the vineyards. This was at a time when Champagne was a lot less concerned with healthy practices, being driven by quantity over quality.
Anselme studied viticulture in Champagne and then in Beaune, Burgundy and it is these later studies that had a defining impact on his winemaking. Anselme is first and foremost Champenois but begun making champagne in a Burgundian style. Prestige wines of Champagne in Anselme’s early years were defined by their vintage and not their location which was the case in Burgundy. These ideals are widespread among the Champagne region’s winemakers today but in Anselme’s early career he was a pioneer and this led to many winemakers working with him; learning from his ethos. This ultimately kickstarted the meteoric rise in top quality grower-producers/domaines in Champagne. We certainly have a lot to thank Anselme for.
Another early experience was a trip to Jerez in 1972 to study sherry production – the famous S
Œnothèque 2023
DECEMBER 2023
SOLISTE MEUNIER “LES GOUTTES D’OR” 2015 BY CHAMPAGNE JEAN-MARC SÉLÈQUE.
Our “Champagne of the Month” for December 2023 is produced by Jean-Marc Sélèque from the village of Pierry on the Côteaux Sud d’Épernay. Jean-Marc controls 9 hectares of vines across seven villages, three on the Côteaux Sud d’Épernay at Pierry, Moussy and Épernay, two in the Vallée de la Marne at Mardeuil and Dizy and finally two on the Côte des Blancs at Vertus and Boursault. The vine stock consists of 60% Chardonnay with 30% Meunier and 10% Pinot Noir.
At the helm since 2008, Jean-Marc set about making a number of changes to farming and production to realize his wine-making goals. These included: conversion to organic and sustainable farming. A state-of-the-art winery was constructed approximately 6 years ago by the slopes of Pierry beneath Chavot. Here Jean-Marc’s Coquard press enables a gentler pressing of the grapes which in turn allows for lower quantities of Sulphur to be added to the wines; cooler fermentation and longer lees contact. He has also increased his stock of oak barrels to allow more vinification in wood.
Soliste Meunier – Les Gouttes d’Or”. Soliste translates as soloist, an adroit term from this musically talented vigneron; for a wine that bears its singularity. A single vintage: 2015, a single variety: Meunier and a single plot: Les Gouttes d’Or. Located on the lower slopes in Pierry, this plot has a Southern exposure and is worked by horse. The soil is mainly clay with a presenc
NOVEMBER 2023
LELARGE-PUGEOT - TRADITION.
Our “Champagne of the Month” for November 2023 is the the latest iteration of Tradition by Lelarge-Pugeot. This lovely family have a long winemaking history, dating back to 1799 and it was great to catch up with them once again at harvest time this year.
A brief introduction to this excellent domaine:
Dominique joined his family in 1985 and instantly began to take a more sustainable route; reducing the use of chemicals in the vineyards at a time when this was rare. By the turn of the Millennium, chemical insecticides were stopped in favour of natural predators, enherbement was encouraged; whilst the use of fungicides and herbicides were drastically reduced. In 2014 the estate began Biodynamic conversion and gained organic certification in 2015. In 2016 beehives were added to the estate to further encourage biodiversity. A beautiful new cellar extension was completed in 2019 giving the family increased capacity of fûts, foudres and amphorae. In 2020, yet more biodiversity was introduced to the vineyards with a largescale project of fruit tree planting including peach, apple, cherry, plum and almond from which 2023 provided a bountiful harvest!
Meet the new boss!
Tradition is essentially the entry level wine of Lelarge-Pugeot, a staple that remains in the domaine’s portfolio but using that term somehow feels a disservice to what is simply an excellent champagne; one we would happily fill our cellar with. Tradition was always good but this latest ve
OCTOBER 2023
PETIT CLERGEOT - CHEVRY CUVÉE CUVE 2020.
Our “Champagne of the Month” for October 2023 comes from one of the exciting new producers we discovered on our recent Champagne trip after a four-year hiatus.
Paul-Bastien Clergeot is at the helm of the Polisot based Domaine Sébastien Clergeot having set up the business as recently as 2017. He has a little under 8 hectares of vines in the beautiful Côte des Bar villages of Polisot, Les Riceys and Balnot-sur-Lagne. He began working organically and the domaine has been certified as under biodynamic conversion since 2020.
This wine is the very first to be produced by Paul-Bastien, labelled as Petit Clergeot and titled Chevry Cuvée Cuve; of which just 4290 bottles were produced. It is a single variety – Pinot Noir, single plot – Chevry (planted in 1975 – Kimmeridgian soil), single vintage 2020 and single method of vinification – cuve inox (stainless steel). The wine spent 30 months on the lees sûr lattes. Harvesting took place on 21st August 2020, it was disgorged on 13th January 2023 without dosage and sealed with a natural cork. Alcohol is at 12.5% abv.
Tasted: 18:00 hours Monday 18th September (sowing/root day in the biodynamic calendar)
Glassware: unknown
Appearance: Clear, pale, lemon.
Characteristics: Honeysuckle, geranium, rose, violet, red apple, apple compote, pear, quince, lemon rind, lemon juice, orange rind, orange juice, pink grapefruit, white peach, green mango, raspberry and lavender. There are secondary notes sa
SEPTEMBER 2023
CHAMPAGNE TARLANT - LA MATINALE 2003.
Apologies for the lack of champagne drinking over the last 6 months, I (Lee) had a cycling accident in February and have been recovering since. Thankfully, I am now able to drink champagne once again - Champagne Discovery becomes Champagne Recovery!
Our “Champagne of the Month” for September 2023 is sensational and well-worth our wait. Produced by Benoît and Mélanie Tarlant, whose family have been vignerons in the Vallée de la Marne village of Œuilly since 1687.
La Matinale 2003 was a special limited production of just 1500 bottles, consisting of 45% Pinot noir, 28% Chardonnay and 27% Meunier. Produced in a year that Benoît described as the first extreme climatic year of his generation. The Winter of 2002/3 was long and hard with plenty of snow, before significant early Spring frosts gave way to a scorching hot Summer. La Matinale was so named as harvesting took place early in the morning on 31st August and 6thSeptember due to the extreme heat. Two plots within Œuilly were used: “Four à Chaux” – the aptly named limestone oven and “La Perchape” – the perch. As to be expected “Four à Chaux” consists of limestone soil whereas chalk can be found at “La Perchape”. In the vineyards, minimal soil disturbance with the light ploughing under the rows which were maintained enherbement. Gentle pruning with organic manure and herbal therapies completed the holistic approach.
In the winery, a gravity-fed press was used, aiding the reduction of 
AUGUST 2023
CODE NOIR BY CHAMPAGNE HENRI GIRAUD.
Our “Champagne of the Month” for August 2023 is produced by Claude Giraud from the Pinot Noir powerhouse of Ay. The Giraud-Hémart family have been tending vines since 1625, making it one of the oldest, and smallest, family-run domaines. The family were growers until Claude, the 12th generation took the helm. Under his tutelage, the domaine began making their own champagnes which are now highly esteemed. The estate consists of 30 parcels from 14 lieux-dits, predominantly within the confines of Ay. Champagne Henri Giraud is a négociant so bought-in grapes compliment the range at entry level. The domaine is now famed for its range of decadent champagnes vinified in certified Argonne oak.
Code Noir is a non-vintage wine consisting solely of Pinot Noir, mainly from Ay. Vinification was predominantly in cuve inox, supplemented with fûts de chêne. Malolactic fermentation was allowed and disgorgement took place in early 2013 with a dosage of 7.5gl. Sealed with a natural cork, alcohol is at 12% abv.
Tasted 16:35 Friday 27th October 2023 (fruit day in the lunar calendar)
Appearance: Clear, medium, gold.
Characteristics: Pronounced intensity with primary aromas of honeysuckle, chamomile, quince, grapefruit, lemon rind, lemon juice, orange peel, orange juice, white peach, lychee, pineapple, mango, chiku, strawberry, raspberry and lavender. There are secondary notes of biscuit palmier, sablé, toasted brioche, vanilla, cloves, butterscotch, Cre
JULY 2023
NICOLAS MAILLART – MILLÉSIME 2007.
Our Champagne of the Month for July 2023 is one from our archives and produced by the excellent Nicoals Maillart from Éceuil on the Montagne de Reims. Nicolas is the 9th generation of the family who have been tending vines in chamery and Écueil since 1753. Nicolas took control of the domaine in 2003 and has 8.5 hectares at his disposal in Éceuil, Bouzy and Villers-Allerand. 75% of the vine stock is Pinot Noir with the remainder being Chardonnay. Sustainable viticulture is practiced with Champagne Nicolas Maillart holding HVE certification, organic practices are followed and the vines are enherbement. In the winery, a pneumatic gravity-fed press ensures a slow and gentle pressing of the grapes with no pumping allowing for less oxygenation of the juices and therefore reducing the levels of sulphur required. Vinification is dependent on the wine, both oak and stainless steel is used.
Millésime 2007 is of course a vintage wine, consisting of 60% Pinot Noir from Bouzy and 40% Chardonnay from Écueil. Vinification was a combination of cuve inox and fûts de chêne. The wine was afforded a good amount of time on the lees, being disgorged in January 2013 with 5gl, sealed with a natural cork; alcohol 12.5% abv.
Tasted: 17:30 hours Saturday 28th May 2022 (flower/root day in the biodynamic calendar)
Glassware: Lehmann Jamesse Abolus
Appearance: Clear, medium, gold.
Characteristics: Pronounced intensity with honeysuckle, apple blossom, lemon bloss
JUNE 2023
BENOÎT LAHAYE – BLANC DE NOIRS.
Our Champagne of the Month for June 2023 is one from our archives, the cuvée Blanc de Noirs from Benoît Lahaye who is based in the village of Bouzy on the Montagne de Reims.
Benoît controls 4½ hectares of vineyards, situated in the villages of Bouzy, Ambonnay and Tauxières. The plots are planted with predominantly Pinot Noir where the average age of the vines is 35-40 years. He also has a tiny plot of Chardonnay on the Côte des Blancs in the Premier Cru village of Vertus. Since 1995, the decision was taken to allow grass to grow throughout the vineyards and in 2003 the conversion to organic agriculture began. From the 2007 harvest, Champagne Benoît Lahaye has been certified organic by ECOCERT. Since 2008, the viticulture has been carried out biodynamically and he is a member of the Association des Champagnes Biologiques. Benoît uses his own composts alongside organic manure, herbal infusions and essential oils alongside regulated quantities of copper-based solutions are used in the vineyards to combat diseases such as mildew.
Blanc de Noirs is a non-vintage wine, this being a blend of the 2009 and 2010 harvests. It consists entirely of Pinot Noir from three plots, two in Bouzy and one in Tauxières. “Les Vaux Bétins” in Bouzy was planted in 1960 and the other Bouzy plot “Les Hannepés” was planted in 1980; both have deep soil. In Tauxières “Les Argentières” was planted in 1990 and has shallow soil. In the winery, vinification was 70% in fûts 
MAY 2023
JEAUNAUX-ROBIN - LES MARNES BLANCHES.
Our “Champagne of the Month” for May 2023 is produced by Cyril Jeaunaux of Champagne Jeaunaux-Robin, based in the village of Talus-Saint-Prix which is located in the Vallée du Petit Morin on the Côte de Sézanne. The family domaine was started in 1971 by Cyril’s parents whom he joined in 1999. Cyril now controls the 5 hectare estate located within the village limits. The vineyards have been farmed sustainably and under organic conversion with the 2018 harvest being the first one to be certified as organic. Meunier accounts for 74% of the holdings with Pinot Noir 23% and Chardonnay just 3%.
Les Marnes Blanches comes from the lieu-dit “Vignes Douces” on the West slopes of Talus-Saint-Prix where the soil is clay/limestone and small flints. Consisting of 100% Chardonnay born from 12 blended wines it was pressed in a traditional press. Vinification took place in old Burgundy fûts de chêne following spontaneous fermentation prior to spending 6 months on the lees. The wine underwent fining prior to bottling and indigenous yeasts were used for the second fermentation. Malolactic fermentation was blocked and the wine spent 3 years on ageing prior to disgorgement without dosage on 01/12/2018 and sealed with a Mytik Diamant cork. This edition is from the 2014 harvest, bottled in 2015, alcohol is at 12% abv and a total of 1000 bottles were produced.
Tasted: 16:00 Saturday 28th October 2023 (root day in the biodynamic calendar).
Glassware: Lehmann Jame
APRIL 2023
GRETHEN - ALTER EGO 2018.
Our “Champagne of the Month” for April 2023 comes from one of the exciting new producers we discovered on our recent Champagne trip after a four-year hiatus.
Antoine Grethen is the 8th generation of his family to farm vines in the Vallée de l’Ardre, taking control of the family estate in 2016. Based in the village of Brouillet, the estate measures around 1 hectare, predominantly planted with Meunier which excels in this part of the region. In the winery, Antoine takes a largely hands-off approach with minimal intervention. A gravity fed press ensures sulphur additions can be kept to a minimum and vinification is carried out in a mixture of fûts de chêne and foudres; the wines are neither fined nor filtered. Annual production is in the region of 10,000 bottles. The domaine is registered organic with Ecocert certification.
Alter Ego:
Consisting of 100% Meunier, it is vinified for 24 months in both fûts de chêne and foudres. After bottling, it spent a further 24 months on the lees; prior to disgorgement without dosage. Sealed with a traditional cork, alcohol is at 13% abv.
Tasted: 13:20 hours Sunday 17th September (flower/root day in the biodynamic calendar)
Glassware: unknown
Appearance: Clear, medium, gold.
Characteristics: Primary aromas of honeysuckle, orange blossom, red apple, apple compote, pear, baked pear, chiku (Sapodilla), preserved lemon, lemon rind, lemon juice, orange rind, orange juice, peach, peach compote, honeydew melon, papaya, 
MARCH 2023
JANISSON-BARADON - TOULETTE 2008.
Our “Champagne of the Month” for March 2023 is the 2008 vintage of Toulette from Janisson-Baradon who are based in the capital of Champagne; Épernay.
Brothers Cyril and Maxence are the fifth generation and have 18 parcels across 9.5 hectares situated on the Coteaux Ouest d’Épernay. The brothers practice sustainable viticulture and are certified HVE – Haute Valeur Environnementale. Toulette is a single plot planted in 1947 with what was additionally thought to be Chardonnay on a mix of clay/limestone soil. Recent testing has found it to be a variant of the variety: Chardonnay Muscadet.
Vinification with 10 months ageing in fûts de chêne – 20% is new oak, malolactic fermentation was blocked. Bottling took place in July 2009, unfortunately we do not have a disgorgement date, suspect March 2016. Sealed with a traditional cork and alcohol is 12.5% abv.
Tasted: 17:20 hours Saturday 9th September (sowing/root day in the biodynamic calendar)
Glassware: Lehmann Jamesse Abolus
Appearance: Clear, medium, gold.
Characteristics: Pronounced primary aromas of honeysuckle, chamomile, geranium, lemon blossom, pink grapefruit, lemon rind, lemon juice, orange rind, orange juice, physalis, kumquat, yuzu, quince, pear, apple compote, chiku (sapodilla), honeydew melon and pineapple. There are secondary notes of toast, brioche, sable biscuit, gingerbread, vanilla, cloves, butterscotch, Crema Catalana and lemon meringue pie. Tertiary aromas include marzipan, ha
FEBRUARY 2023
LELARGE-PUGEOT - GUEUX 2015.
Our “Champagne of the Month” for February 2023 is the 2015 iteration of Gueux by Lelarge-Pugeot. This lovely family have a long winemaking history, dating back to 1799.
Dominique joined his family in 1985 and instantly began to take a more sustainable route; reducing the use of chemicals in the vineyards at a time when this was rare. By the turn of the Millennium, chemical insecticides were stopped in favour of natural predators, enherbement was encouraged; whilst the use of fungicides and herbicides were drastically reduced. In 2014 the domaine began Biodynamic conversion and gained organic certification in 2015. In 2016 beehives were added to the estate to further encourage biodiversity. A beautiful new cellar extension was completed in 2019 giving the family increased capacity of fûts, foudres and amphorae. In 2020, yet more biodiversity was introduced to the vineyards with a largescale project of fruit tree planting including peach, apple, cherry, plum and almond.
Gueux 2015 is born from two lieux-dits within the village: “Le Linguet” and “Les Pantenais”. It consists of 70% Meunier, 25% Pinot Noir and 5% Chardonnay. The Meunier is taken from “Le Linguet” which has a South-East exposition with sandy soil. “Les Pantenais” is home to the Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, it faces East and the soil is a mix of clay and loam.
Vinification took place in stainless steel following spontaneous fermentation with home-made, indigenous yeast. One year on fin
JANUARY 2023
J. LASSALLE - SPECIAL CLUB 2022.
Our “Champagne of the Month” for January 2023 is produced by Chantal and Angéline of Champagne J. Lassalle. Based in the Montagne de Reims village of Chigny-les-Roses, the domaine controls 60 parcels totalling 16 hectares across 7 villages: Chigny-les-Roses, Ludes, Montbré, Puisieulx, Rilly-la-Montagne, Sermiers and Villers-Allerand. In the vineyard “lutte raisonnée” is practiced to maintain balance.
Special Club is always a vintage wine, this edition being from the excellent 2002. Consisting of 60% Chardonnay and 40% Pinot Noir, vinifiction was thermoregulated in stainless steel and malolactic fermentation was carried out. Around 10 years bottle ageing took place prior to being disgorged and being sealed with a natural cork. We estimate dosage to be around 9-10gl.
Tasted: 15:55 hours Thursday 29th December 2022 (fruit day in the biodynamic calendar)
Glassware: Lehmann Jamesse Abolus
Appearance: Clear, medium, gold.
Characteristics: Pronounced intensity with primary aromas of apple blossom, lemon blossom, honeysuckle, roasted lemon, orange peel, mandarin, apple, pear, quince, lychee, mango, honeydew melon, peach, pineapple, passion fruit, raspberry and apple compote. There are secondary notes of short crust pastry, toasted brioche, chausson aux pommes, sable biscuit and bread and butter pudding. Tertiary aromas include almond, marzipan, hazelnut, caramel, toffee apple, marmalade, dried apple, ginger, hay, honey and gingerbread.
Pri
Œnothèque 2022
Our library of previous Champagnes of the Month
from 2022DECEMBER 2022
VILMART - CŒUR DE CUVÉE 1998. Our “Champagne of the Month” for December 2022 is Vilmart’s 1998 edition of Cœur de Cuvée. Laurent Champs is the fifth generation to take the helm of Champagne Vilmart, based in the Montagne de Reims village of Rilly-la-Montagne. In all, Laurent 11 hectares of vines at his disposal; all of which are located within the village limit and having an average age of 35 years. The domaine eschews the use of chemical fertilisers, herbicides and insecticides in order to maintain equilibrium in the vineyard and have obtained HVE certification.
Cœur de Cuvée is always a vintage wine, born from the best two plots of the estate which are home to the oldest vines, at the time of the 1998 vintage; the average age of which was 50 years. It is a blend of 80% Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Noir; production was limited to 6000 bottles. Only the middle press is used, followed by ten months ageing in 225 litre fûts de chêne; prior to seventy months on the lees. Malolactic fermentation was blocked, the bottle was secured with a natural cork and dosage is at 7gl.
Tasted: 14:25 hours, Monday 26th December 2022 (flower day in the biodynamic calendar)
Glassware: Jamesse Absolus
Appearance: Clear, medium, gold.
Flavour characteristics: Pronounced intensity with primary notes of jasmine, violet, pear, green apple, quince, grapefruit, lemon rind, lemon juice, cantaloupe melon, pineapple, star anise, mango and preserved lemon. Secondary aromas of shortbread biscuit, toast
NOVEMBER 2022
JACQUES LASSAINGE - 1 + UN.
Our “Champagne of the Month” for November 2022 is the cuvée “1 + UN” from the brilliant Emmanuel Lassaigne. He is based in the village of Montgueux known by the moniker of the Montrachet of Champagne. Montgueux wasn’t always so affectionately lauded and when Emmanuel or Manu as he is known, took over the family domaine in 1999 it was a little known champagne outpost. It didn’t take too long however before this chalky hill to the West of Troyes began garnering attention and it is now rightly appreciated for its Chardonnay.
The estate totals 5½ hectares with all plots located inside the commune of Montgueux. Here the soil is of Cretaceous chalk beneath clay-limestone. In the vineyard, Emmanuel eschews the use of chemical fertilisers and insecticides. Biodiversity is promoted through enherbement and gentle ploughing by hand. In the winery, fermentation predominantly takes place in stainless steel, partial malolactic fermentation, his wines are neither fined nor filtered; minimal sulphur is used and the wines are without dosage.
“1 + UN” is a blanc de blancs consisting entirely of Chardonnay. It is born from the two Montgueux plots of Haut Revers du Chutat and Grande Côte. The base wine (60%) is from the 2009 harvest, 17% from 2008, 17% from 2007 and 6% from 2006. We believe the wine was disgorged in February 2017 before being sealed with a natural cork.
Tasted: 17:45 hours, Friday 28th October 2022 (fruit day in the biodynamic calendar)
Glas
OCTOBER 2022
BENOÎT LAHAYE – LE JARDIN DE LA GROSSE PIERRE.
Our Champagne of the Month for October 2022 is the cuvée Le Jardin de le Grosse Pierre from Benoît Lahaye who is based in the village of Bouzy on the Montagne de Reims.
Benoît controls 4½ hectares of vineyards, situated in the villages of Bouzy, Ambonnay and Tauxières. The plots are planted with predominantly Pinot Noir where the average age of the vines is 35-40 years. He also has a tiny plot of Chardonnay on the Côte des Blancs in the Premier Cru village of Vertus. Since 1995, the decision was taken to allow grass to grow throughout the vineyards and in 2003 the conversion to organic agriculture began. From the 2007 harvest, Champagne Benoît Lahaye has been certified organic by ECOCERT. Since 2008, the viticulture has been carried out biodynamically and he is a member of the Association des Champagnes Biologiques.
In the winery, fermentation is carried out in oak with minimal sulphur and the wines are either without dosage or extra-brut. Annual production is approximately 35,000 bottles.
Le Jardin de la Grosse Pierre is a vintage wine, this being from the 2012 harvest. The wine is borne from a single plot in Bouzy from which the cuvée takes its name. Here the soil is brown calcareous and the old Pinot Noir vines that contribute the majority of the blend were planted in 1923. In 1953, Chardonnay, Meunier, Arbane, Fromentau (Pinot Gris), Petit Meslier and Pinot Blanc were added to the plot. All seven varieties were press
SEPTEMBER 2022
R&L LEGRAS - SAINT-VINCENT.
Our “Champagne of the Month” for September 2022 is produced by Julien Barbier of R & L Legras. The Legras family bought vines in Chouilly in 1808 and in the 1950’s brothers Lucien and René obtained Récoltant status. In the early 1970’s the brothers opted to become a négociant as they wanted to supplement their 5 hectare estate. An employee of the Legras family, Julien’s father Gérard took over the reins; running the estate for thirty years before handing over to his son.
Chouilly is the northernmost village on the Côte des Blancs and home to a couple famed sites: Mont Aigu and Butte de Saran. Chardonnay grown in the limestone soil here often produces richer wines than those found further to the south.
Saint-Vincent is a vintage wine consisting entirely of old vine Chardonnay from Chouilly that spends around 10 years ageing on the lees; a homage to the patron saint of wine growers. Our version is from 2000, purchased on a visit to the domaine in 2012 and used to celebrate our 22nd wedding anniversary. Sealed with a natural cork, dosage is around 4gl and alcohol is at 12% abv.
Tasted: 17:50 hours, Friday 19th August 2022 (root/sowing day in the biodynamic calendar)
Glassware: Jamesse Absolus
Appearance: Clear, medium, gold.
Flavour characteristics: Pronounced intensity with primary notes of orange blossom, geranium, honeysuckle, orange juice, orange peel, lemon rind, burned lemon, poached pear, roasted pineapple, honeydew melon, bak
AUGUST 2022
PENET-CHARDONNET - LES FERVINS.
Our “Champagne of the Month” for August 2022 is produced by Alexandre Penet of Champagne Penet-Chardonnet . Based in Verzy on the Montagne de Reims, Alexandre is a 4th generation winemaker and has 6 hectares at his disposal in the Pinot Noir dominated villages of Verzy and Verzenay. Pinot Noir accounts for around two-thirds of the estate with the remaining vine stock being Chardonnay.
In the vineyards, chemical fertilisers, insecticides and herbicides are eschewed in order to promote biodiversity. Complantation, the practice of mixing grape varieties in a terroir is used to further enhance natural biodiversity. In the winery, malolactic fermentation is prevented.
“Les Fervins” is a vintage wine - ours being from 2009; born from a single vineyard from which it takes its name. Located in Verzy, it has a south-east aspect; situated at an altitude between 140-160 metres. The soil is brown limestone on chalk with colluvium (rock detritus). At the top of the steep 15% slope is a cross monument which is recreated as the house logo. Consisting of 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay, our incarnation is from the 2009 vintage. Harvest took place between 19th and 22nd September. Fermented in stainless steel tanks, the wine was bottled 3rd May 2010 and disgorged with 3gl in July 2013 before being sealed with a natural cork. Purchased in 2015, it has been cellared ever since.
Tasted: 17:00 hours, 30th July 2022 (sowing/fruit day in the biodynamic cale
JULY 2022
OLIVIER HORIOT - MÉTISSE. Our “Champagne of the Month” for July 2022 is produced by the brilliant Olivier Horiot. Based in the beautiful village of Les Riceys in the far South of Champagne, he crafts an array of stunning champagnes and côteaux champenois from his plots totalling 7 hectares which he farms biodynamically, keeping around 2 hectares solely for his own wines. We have long been huge fans of Olivier’s winemaking and adore his still “Rosé des Riceys” that age are even more amazing if afforded some extra ageing.
Métisse is a blend of two Pinots, 80% Noir and 20% Blanc born from six plots of clay/marl Kimmeridgian soil within Les Riceys. Aged in oak barrels, it is a blend of the 2010 harvest with 15 to 20% reserve wines maintained in foudres. Bottled on 22nd July 2011 and disgorged on 8th December without dosage and sealed with a natural cork, alcohol is at 12% abv. Ours was magnum 9 of 99 purchased our visit to Olivier in April 2018.
Tasted: 15:45 hours, 11th June 2022 (sowing/root day in the biodynamic calendar)
Appearance: Clear, medium, lemon.
Flavour characteristics: Pronounced intensity with primary notes of geranium, honeysuckle, elderflower, Spartan apple, quince, lemon juice, lemon rind, orange rind, pink grapefruit, lychee, honeydew melon, passion fruit, pineapple, raspberry, prune, dried fig, lavender and chalky salinity. Secondary aromas of vanilla, cloves, cinnamon, short crust pastry, summer fruit tart, toast, butterscotch, charred wood, dark
JUNE 2022
NICOLAS MAILLART - MILLÉSIME 2007. Our “Champagne of the Month” for June 2022 is produced by Nicolas Maillart from the village of Écueil on the Montagne de Reims. Nicolas is the 9th generation of his family working the family estate consisting of 8 ½ hectares, predominantly in Écueil with plots also in Bouzy and Villers-Allerand.
Millésime 2007 is a blend of 60% Pinot Noir, predominantly from Bouzy and 40% Chardonnay from Écueil. Gentle pressing by means of a pneumatic press that is gravity fed to limit oxygenation of the juice. Vinification is partly in stainless steel and partly in oak barrels. The wine spent around 5 years maturing in the bottle before being disgorged by hand in January 2013. Sealed with a natural cork, dosage is around 4gl.
Tasted: 17:20 hours Saturday 28th May 2022 (root day in the biodynamic calendar)
Glassware: Lehmann Jamesse Abolus
Appearance: Clear, pale, gold.
Characteristics: Pronounced intensity with primary aromas of apple blossom, lemon blossom, roasted lemon, orange peel, mandarin, apple, pear, quince, mango, honeydew melon, white peach, pineapple, passion fruit, persimmon, raspberry and apple compote. There are secondary notes of short crust pastry, chausson aux pommes, vanilla, cloves, charred wood and toasted brioche. Tertiary aromas include almond, marzipan, caramel, toffee apple, marmalade, dried apple, ginger, hay, honey and dried banana.
Price circa at source (2013) €28.00
Current vintage circa €55.00 
MAY 2022
Revisiting some favourites. Our “Champagne of the Month” for May follows a slightly different format to normal. After a hiatus of two years “le printemps des champagnes” made a welcome return in 2022 but sadly we were unable to attend. To cheer ourselves up over a long bank holiday weekend; we decided to revive our champagne week memories by picking a bottle from our collection that represented some of the different associations. A delicious weekend of wine, so much so that we felt compelled to continue into the following week!
Thursday 14th April (sowing/root day)
Time – 17:25
Association: Terres at Vins
Producer: Emanuel Brochet (Villers aux Nœuds, Montagne de Reims)
Cuvée: Le Mont Benoit
Laboratory accredited no pesticide residue.
20% from 2007, 80% 2008. 40% Meunier, 35% Pinot Noir, 25% Chardonnay. 11 months vinification and ageing in oak barrels, no cold stabilisation, no fining nor filtering. 4gl dosage, sealed with a natural cork. Alcohol is at 12.5% abv.
Appearance: Clear, pale, gold.
Characteristics: Pronounced intensity with primary aromas of honeysuckle, green apple, gooseberry, quince, pear, grapefruit, lemon juice, orange peel, chiku, lychee, cantaloupe melon, passion fruit, pineapple, raspberry leaf, baked apple, green bell pepper and flint. There are secondary notes short crust pastry, toast, palmier biscuit, vanilla, charred wood, smoke, butterscotch, cocoa nibs and coffee. Tertiary aromas include hay, honey, hazelnut, walnut, toffee apple and ginge
APRIL 2022
NATHALIE FALMET - LE VAL CORNET.
Our “Champagne of the Month” for April 2022 is produced by Nathalie Falmet from the village of Rouvres-les-Vignes in the Côte des Bar. Nathalie studied chemistry in Paris before taking dergrees in both viticulture and œnology, working first as a consultant œnologist before ultimately taking over the 3.4 hectare family estate in 2008. Almost immediately she began making changes by building a new winery and installing a pneumatic press in 2009.
The domaine is farmed sustainably and has been awarded HVE certification. The estate is split between two villages with 2.8 hectares in Nathalie’s home village of Rouvres-les-Vignes, the remaining 0.6 hectares located in Arsonval, situated to the east of the Orient Forest. The soil is clay-limestone Kimmerdigian and the vineyards are ploughed regularly by horse. Nathalie prefers to keep the rows clear of cover crops as she feels that this lends herbaceous notes to her wines.
In the winery, fermentation is mainly carried out in cuve inox although Nathalie also has some 350 litre barriques. Malolactic fermentation is carried out in an effort to maintain low levels of sulphur. Production is around 300,000 bottles per year.
Le Val Cornet is a Blanc de Noirs consisting of 50% each of Pinot Noir and Meunier from a single plot in Rouvres-les-Vignes from where the wine takes its name. The plot was planted 50 years ago, the Pinot Noir sited on the upper section of the slope whilst the Meunier is at the
MARCH 2022
EGLY-OURIET - GRAND CRU VP.
Our “Champagne of the Month” for March 2022 is produced by Francis Egly of Champagne Egly-Ouriet; based in the village of Ambonnay on the Montagne de Reims. The estate totals approximately 10 hectares – generally on clay-limestone soil; with the majority of the vineyard holdings in the villages of Ambonnay, Bouzy and Verzenay. This equates to around 9 hectares, 7 of which are planted with Pinot Noir and the remainder with Chardonnay. The estate is completed with a single plot in Vrigny that consists of old vine Meunier.
Although not certified organic, the estate is farmed without the use of chemical fertilisers, herbicides or insecticides and ploughing is carried out by horse. Francis, who is the fourth generation to head the family domaine prefers to make use of extended lees aging, fermentation in fûts de chêne, minimal filtration and low dosages. His wines are simply outstanding; they age brilliantly whilst retaining vibrancy and freshness. Production is around 100,000 bottles per annum.
Our incarnation of “Grand Cru VP” (purchased on a visit to the domaine almost ten years ago in September 2012) had a base year of 2005, consisting of 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay, there being 50% vins de reserve. 90% of the fruit came from plots in Ambonnay, the remainder from Bouzy and Verzenay. Vinification took place in an 80/20 split of old and new fûts de chêne, malolactic fermentation was blocked and the wine was neither fined nor filtered. VP
FEBRUARY 2022
GUILLAUME SERGENT - LE CHEMIN DES CHAPPES.
Our “Champagne of the Month” for February 2022 is produced by Guillaume Sergent who is based in the village of Vrigny on the Petite Montagne de Reims. Guillaume has 1.86 hectares at his disposal in two villages: Vrigny and Coulommes-la-Montagne. Here the plots on the higher slops where the majority of Guillaume’s holdings are located have deep sandy soil; whereas the plots on the lower slopes have limestone and chalk soil.
The Sergent family can trace their grape-growing roots in the village to the mid 1800’s. These days, Guillaume follows the lunar calendar without choosing to follow a prescribed viticulture method and is therefore not certified organic or biodynamic.
Guillaume vinifies his wines in demi-muids – large 500 litre oak barrels. He prefers these to 228 litre oak barrels (fûts) as he can keep the wines fresher, with more minerality and tension. Malolactic fermentation is carried out, with one low dosage of sulphur added and he also keeps the bottle pressure lower than most. His first release began with just one wine and 600 bottles and today there are two wines; with production around 8000 bottles.
Le Chemin des Chappes is a blanc de noirs, consisting of 50% Pinot Noir and 50% Meunier; born from two parcels in Vrigny. Les Grands Chemins provides the Pinot Noir whilst the Meunier comes from Les Chappes. Our version is from the 2014 harvest, was bottled on 16th January 2015 and disgorged on 10th May 2016 with 1
JANUARY 2022
FRANCIS BOULARD ET FILLE - BLANC DE BLANCS - LES VIELLES VIGNES 2010.
We welcome in the New Year with a bottle from our older collection, produced by Champagne Francis Boulard et Fille and purchased on one of our visits to the winery back in 2015.
The recent history of the domaine saw Francis, the driving force behind Champagne Raymond Boulard; go his separate way from the family to form Champagne Francis Boulard. In doing so, it gave him and daughter Delphine the opportunity to pursue their goal of conversion to biodynamic viticulture. The pair continued working together until Francis’ retirement a few years ago when the winery was relocated from Cauroy-lès-Hermonville to Faverolles-et-Coëmy; a few kilometres to the south-west.
Delphine is now in control of the domaine’s 7.5 hectares that are predominantly located in the Massif de Saint-Thierry (Cauroy-lès-Hermonville) with holdings also in the Vallée de la Marne (Cuchery, Paradis) and Montagne de Reims (Mailly-Champagne).
As stated, the domaine is farmed biodynamically and certified by Ecocert. In the vineyards, vines are pruned short to control the yield which in turn limits the necessity for “green harvesting”. Light ploughing takes place around six times a year in order to control the weed cover which is encouraged for a natural symbiosis.
In the winery, a non-interventionist approach is taken. A gentle membrane press is used which helps provide precise control of the pressed juice. Indigenous yeast aids 
Œnothèque 2021
Our library of previous Champagnes of the Month from 2021DECEMBER 2021
JULES BONNET BLANC DE NOIRS 2011 by BONNET-PONSON.
Our “Champagne of the Month” for December 2021 is produced by Cyril Bonnet, the 6th generation of winemakers at Champagne Bonnet-Ponson. Based in the village of Chamery on the Petite Montagne de Reims, the domaine now controls around 10.5 hectares of vines in Chamery, Vrigny, Coulommes la Montagne and Verzenay.
The family can trace their champagne-making roots in the village to 1862 when the domaine was created by Grégoire Bonnet. Successive generations continued to expand the business which included the need to move premises across the village as a result of Second World War bombing destroying the existing family cellars. The 1952 marriage of André to Monique Ponson – from a family of vignerons in Vrigny gave birth to the domaine Bonnet-Ponson and in turn expanded the family holdings. Cyril joined his father Thierry in 2013 after completing his œnology studies and working in the South-West of France as a maker of red wine. This also coincided with the domaine converting to organic viticulture.
Jules Bonnet 2011 is a vintage blanc de noirs, consisting entirely of Pinot Noir from the domaine’s best plots in Verzenay and Chamery. There are four plots in Verzenay which have a northern exposure with shallow chalk, complimented by two plots in Chamery with an average age of 55 years. The domaine is under biodynamic conversion so no synthetic chemicals are used in the vineyard. To battle mildew, copper salt is added to the
NOVEMBER 2021
LES VIGNES D'AUTREFOIS 2009 BY LAHERTE FRÈRES. “Champagne of the Month” for November 2021 is the 2009 edition of Les Vignes d’Autrefois by Champagne Laherte Frères. Aurèlien Laherte is the seventh generation to head the family domaine, based in Chavot on the Coteaux Sud d’Épernay.
The estate totals 11 hectares with plots in the Coteaux Sud d’Épernay: Chavot, Brugny, Épernay, Mancy, Mouusy and Vaudancourt. Vertus and Voipreux in the Côte des Blancs and in the villages of Bousault and Le Breuil in the Vallée de la Marne. Sustainable viticulture is practiced in the vineyards with a respect to nature and traditional methods.
Les Vignes d’Autrefois is always a Blanc de Noirs, consisting solely of Pinot Meunier from old vine stock in the villages of Chavot and Mancy; planted in 1947 and 1964 respectively. Vinification takes place in 228 litre fûts de chêne, malolactic fermentation is blocked; 6 months resting on the fine lees with regular batonnages. The wine was disgorged in January 2013 with between 2 and 4gl and sealed with a Mytik cork; alcohol is at 12% abv. This bottle was purchased direct from the domaine in April 2014.
Glassware used: Lehmann Absolus
Tasted: 16:10 hours, 10th October 2021 (fruit day in the biodynamic calendar)
Appearance: Clear, medium, gold.
Flavour characteristics: Pronounced intensity with primary notes of honeysuckle, lemon blossom, Spartan apple, wild strawberry, fresh orange juice, Mirabelle plum, peach, apricot, pineapple, a
OCTOBER 2021
CUVÉE MILLÉSIME 2005 BY CHAMPAGNE BOURDAIRE-GALLOIS.
Our “Champagne of the Month” for October 2021 is the Millésime 2005 from Champagne Bourdaire-Gallois. Based within the Northernmost region of Champagne in the village of Pouilly on the Massif de Saint-Thierry; the domaine occupies 5 hectares. Along with Pouilly, plots are also located in the villages of Thil, Villers-Franqueux and Hermonville. The vineyards are found to the East of the Massif where they enjoy a South/South-East exposure. The soil found in this area is sandy loam which lends itself to Meunier which accounts for 85% of the vine stock, with 10% Chardonnay and 5% Pinot Noir. The average age of the vines is 45 years with one plot due to celebrate its centenary in 2022.
David Bourdaire is the 10th generation of winegrowers but only the third since 1951to be producing his own champagnes. Previously part of the co-operative whereby the village press was used, David constructed his own pressoir ready for the 2002 harvest and with it was granted récoltant status.
The Millésime 2005 consists of 45% Chardonnay and 10% Meunier; both of which were vinified in old Burgundy barrels. Pinot Noir at 45% completes the cuvée which was vinified in stainless steel. It was disgorged without dosage on 5th July 2013 and sealed with a natural cork. Alcohol is at 12% abv.
Glassware used: Lehmann Absolus
Tasted: 18:25 hours, 27th September 2021 (flower/sowing day in the biodynamic calendar)
Appearance: Clear, medium, g
SEPTEMBER 2021
COMTESSE MARIE DE FRANCE 2000 BY CHAMPAGNE PAUL BARA.
Our “Champagne of the Month” for September 2021 is the 2000 vintage of Comtesse Marie de France from Champagne Paul Bara. Since 1986, Chantale Bara has been at the helm of this family domaine, based on the Montagne de Reims in the Grand Cru village of Bouzy, famed for its Pinot Noir. The family can trace its history in the village back to 1860 but it wasn’t until 1965 that Chantale’s father Paul - from whom the company takes its name; began selling champagnes under his own label.
Today, the domaine has 33 parcels all within the village limits of Bouzy which equates to 11 hectares in total. As you would expect, the holdings are predominantly Pinot Noir – 9.5 hectares; with the remainder being Chardonnay. Practicing sustainable viticulture, the domaine eschews the use of chemical herbicides or insecticides and uses the method of enherbement in the vineyards. In 2020, Champagne Paul Bara was awarded HVE certification along with VDC – Viticulture Durable en Champagne.
We drank this wine to celebrate our 21st Wedding Anniversary and was one of a number of bottles we picked up during a visit to the domaine around 10 years ago. The run up to the 2000 harvest was characterised by storms with heavy rain and hail causing real concerns due to mildew and grey rot. Fortunately, a dry warm spell arrived in August that prevented a potential disaster for the harvest that commenced in the second week of September. Comtesse Marie de F
AUGUST 2021
AMBROSIE BY CHAMPAGNE PETIT & BAJAN.
Our “Champagne of the Month” for August 2021 is the cuvée Ambrosie which happens to be our first experience of Champagne Petit et Bajan. Based in Avize, this husband and wife team own two 0.8 hectares of Chardonnay plots on the Côte des Blancs in Avize, Cramant and Oger along with 2 hectares of Pinot Noir in Verzenay on the Montagne de Reims.
Sustainable viticulture is practiced in the vineyards where grapes are generally harvested late to ensure optimum maturity and ripeness. In the winery, a traditional wooden press is used and fermentation takes place in a combination of stainless steel tanks and oak fûts. The wines undergo malolactic fermentation and dosages are kept low.
Ambrosie consists of 70% Chardonnay from Avize and 30% Pinot Noir from Verzenay. The base wine for this edition was from the 2011 harvest, fermentation took place in cuve inox and as stated, malolactic conversion was carried out. The wine was bottled on 23rd February 2012 and disgorged on 12th June 2018 with 4 grams per litre whereby it was sealed with a Mytik cork. Alcohol is at 12% abv.
Tasted: 17:15 hours, 30th July 2021 (fruit day in the biodynamic calendar)
Appearance: Clear, pale, lemon.
Flavour characteristics: Pronounced intensity with primary notes of chamomile, honeysuckle, red apple, pear, quince, grapefruit, lemon, white peach, apricot, pineapple, passion fruit, lychee and raspberry. Secondary aromas consist of vanilla, fresh bread dough, t
JULY 2021
SÈVE ROSÉ DE SAIGNÉE BY OLIVIER HORIOT.
Our “Champagne of the Month” for July 2021 is produced by a brilliant winemaker: Olivier Horiot. Based in the beautiful village of Les Riceys in the far South of Champagne, he crafts an array of stunning champagnes and côteaux champenois from his plots totalling 7 hectares which he farms biodynamically, keeping around 2 hectares solely for his own wines. We have long been huge fans of Olivier’s winemaking and adore his still “Rosé des Riceys” that are even more amazing when afforded some extra ageing.
Sève Rosé de Saignée as the name suggests is a rosé wine made using the traditional skin contact method. It is a vintage, having been harvested on 23rd September 2008 and born from the South-East facing plot “En Barmont” where the soil is clay on limestone dating from the Kimmeridgian period. Formed entirely from old, low-yielding Pinot Noir vines; it was vinified in oak barrels with a long carbonic maceration of 4 days ensuring both a deep colour and textural wine. Ageing continued in oak barrels before bottling took place on 8th August 2009. It was disgorged without dosage on 8th December 2015 and sealed with a natural cork. Ours was one of just 80 magnums produced and continued ageing in Olivier’s cellars until our visit to the domaine in April 2018. Alcohol is at 12% abv.
Tasted: 15:15 hours, 11th June 2021 (flower/root day in the biodynamic calendar).
Appearance: Clear, deep, pink.
Flavour characteristics: Pronounced 
JUNE 2021
LES REVENANTS BY ETIENNE CALSAC.
Our “Champagne of the Month” for June 2021 is “Les Revenants” from Étienne Calsac. Based in the Grand Cru village of Avize, this excellent young winemaker has been producing terrific wines since 2010. This was when he took control of 3 hectares of the family estate, predominantly in Avize which includes this famous village’s only Clos – in his grandparents back garden. The estate includes plots in nearby Grauves – also on the Côte des Blancs, Bisseuil in the Grande Vallée de la Marne and a plot in Montgenost in the Côte Sézannais that is planted with three of the lesser used varieties: Arbane, Petit Meslier and Pinot Blanc.
Étienne has been awarded the HVE certificate for sustainable viticulture and does not use herbicides. In the cuverie, spontaneous fermentation takes place and malolactic fermentation is carried out.
As stated, Les Revenants (those who come back) is born from a single plot in Montgenost on the Côte Sézannais. The soil here is a mix of sandy clay with chalk and this South facing lieu-dit is presumably a rather warm spot as it is named “Les Fours” – the ovens! The cuvée consists of 50% Pinot Blanc, 43% Petit Meslier and 7% Arbane; a vintage wine from the 2017 harvest. Vinification takes place in 600l oak barrels – demi-muids (half-hogshead) and the second fermentation takes place under cork – sous liège. It was disgorged in February 2019 with 2gl, sealed with a natural cork and alcohol is at 12% abv.
Tasted 18:00 M
MAY 2021
CÔTEAUX CHAMPENOIS VRIGNY ROUGE 2012 BY CHAMPAGNE LELARGE-PUGEOT.
Our “Champagne of the Month” for May is the delicious Coteaux Champenois Vrigny Rouge 2012 by Champagne Lelarge-Pugeot. Coteaux Champenois are the still wines regulated within the Champagne AOC. These wines have been enjoyed by champagne fans for some years and are now gaining in popularity with the wider wine World, thanks in no uncertain terms to their quality levels.
Based in Vrigny, the family has been tending vines since 1799 and Dominique took the helm of this 8.7 hectare estate in 1985. The majority of the plots are in Vrigny, with parcels also located in Gueux and Coulommes-la-Montagne. The vinestock consists of 4.4 hectares of Meunier, 2.8 of Pinot Noir and 1.5 of Chardonnay; soils are predominantly chalk, clay loam and sandy.
In 2000, Dominique began the process of moving towards organic farming by ceasing the use of pesticides and dramatically reducing the use of fungicides and herbicides in the vineyard. Allowing natural ground cover - enherbement followed in 2005 and ploughing by horse was gradually introduced in 2009. In 2010, the family began the process of organic conversion which was completed and certified by 2015. This also coincided with the construction of a beautiful new cellar, expanding the previous facility that was built in 1998. Biodynamic trials began in 2014, the estate is now certified both Ecocert (organic) and Demeter (biodynamic). Beehives were introduced to the estate 
APRIL 2021
ROSÉ BRUT NATURE BY CHAMPAGNE DRAPPIER. Our “Champagne of the Month” for April 2021 is the Rosé Brut Nature from Champagne Drappier. Based in the village of Urville in the Aube region, the family can trace its roots back to the 12th century; the company began production in 1808. It is rare for us to review négociants but this family run domaine is a top quality outfit.
Three generations are involved in the business with André passing on the reins to Michel some years ago; his children Charlene and Hugo are the latest in the line of Drappier’s to join the company. The Drappier family is famed for being the first to bring to and cultivate Pinot Noir in the region; this was back in the 1930’s and of course it is now the dominant variety. Drappier themselves have 35 hectares of Pinot Noir at their disposal in Urville located on Kimmeridgian soil which the area is famous for.
In the vineyards, the family practice sustainable viticulture and in the cellar a minimal approach is taken wherever possible. The press is gravity fed which negates the requirement of pumping and therefore limits oxygenation. In turn, this vastly reduces the need for sulfur addition in the wines. Champagne Drappier is also a carbon zero business which is an impressive feat.
Rosé Brut Nature is a non-vintage wine made of a blend of 100% Pinot Noir. It is produced by way of the saignée method, with a long 3 day maceration period which produces a gorgeous deep smoked salmon colour. Vinified in stain
MARCH 2021
CUVÉE LOUIS BY CHAMPAGNE TARLANT.
Our “Champagne of the Month” for March 2021 is the cuvée Louis by Champagne Tarlant. Based in the village of Œuilly in the Vallée de la Marne, brother and sister Benoît and Melanie Tarlant are at the helm of this fantastic 13 hectare estate whose history of tending vines dates back to 1687. Œuilly is located on the south bank of the River Marne where the climate of the estate’s vineyards is directly influenced by the waterway. Sustainable viticulture is practiced forgoing the use of chemical fertilizers, herbicides and pesticides.
Cuvée Louis is a non-vintage wine consisting of a blend of vintages; our version has a base of 1999, complemented by 1998, 1997 and 1996. It is born from a single plot “Les Crayons” that has a subsoil of chalk. A blend of 50% each of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, fermentation took place in fûts and was bottled in May 2002 without malolactic fermentation. It was disgorged in July 2014 with a dosage of 2gl. Alcohol is at 12% abv.
Tasted 16:20 Friday 26th February 2021 (fruit/sowing day in the lunar calendar).
Characteristics: Pronounced intensity with primary aromas of lemon blossom, honeysuckle, lemon juice, preserved lemon, lime juice, orange, pink grapefruit, green apple, Bramley apple skin, apricot, mango, roasted pineapple, lychee, cantaloupe melon, nectarine, passion fruit, raspberry, dates, prunes and lavender. There are secondary notes of Palmier buscuits, fresh baked brioche, lemon tart, toast, toffe
FEBRUARY 2021
L’ACCOMPLIE BY FRÉDÉRIC SAVART.
Our “Champagne of the Month” for February 2021 is L’Accomplie by Frédéric Savart. Frédéric is based in the village of Écueil on the Montage de Reims and has 4 hectares at his disposal with plots arranged in two villages: Écueil and Villers-aux-Nœuds. Écueil provides a clay and sandy soil that is in contrast to the chalkier soils of Villers-aux-Nœuds
Frédéric practices sustainable viticulture eschewing the use of herbicides and pesticides. In the winery he prefers to use new oak, not for the flavour it imparts on the wine but for the fact that he can use less sulfur due to the fact the barrels have less of a build-up of microbial residue. Most wines are prevented from undergoing malolactic fermentation in order to preserve the wine’s acidity and tension. Gentle pressing is carried out with a modern bladder style press.
L’Accomplie is a non-vintage wine comprising of an equal blend from two years: 2012 and 2013. It consists of 80% Pinot Noir from both Écueil and the plot “Le Mont Benoît” in Villers-aux-Nœuds. The Chardonnay comes from a single plot in Écueil. The wine is vinified in both fûts and cuve inox (50/50). It was bottled in July 2014 and disgorged with 5gl in March 2016 whereupon it was sealed with a natural cork; alcohol is at 12.5% abv.
Tasted 18:00 Saturday 23rd January 2021 (root day in the lunar calendar).
Characteristics: Pronounced intensity with primary aromas of violet, lavender, red apple, pear, grapefruit, Sat
JANUARY 2021
4 CÉPAGES BY THOMAS BARBICHON.
Our “Champagne of the Month” to see in 2021 is the Réserve 4 Cépages by Thomas Barbichon. Based in the village of Gyé-sur-Seine in the Côte des Bar; Thomas controls 9.3 hectares in five surrounding villages on clay-limestone soil. Certified biodynamic since 2010, Champagne Robert Barbichon produce 37,000 bottles annually.
Réserve 4 Cépages is a non-vintage wine, predominantly from the 2011 harvest with 20% reserve wines from 2010 and 2009; consisting of 70% Pinot Noir, and 10% each of Chardonnay, Meunier and Pinot Blanc. The grapes are taken from each of the domaine’s plots. Pressed in a traditional Coquard press and vinified in cuve inox, the wine undergoes malolactic fermentation. Bottled on 11th July 2012, it was disgorged with 4gl on 28th October 2015 and sealed with a natural cork. Alcohol is at 12% abv.
Tasted 16:50 Tuesday 29th December 2020 (flower/sowing day in the lunar calendar)
Characteristics: Pronounced intensity with primary aromas of violet, lavender, honeysuckle, lemon rind, lemon juice, grapefruit, red apple, blueberry, mango, wild strawberry, lychee and cantaloupe melon. There are secondary notes of short crust pastry, lemon tart, toast, bread dough and Eton mess. Tertiary aromas include marmalade, dried apple, acacia honey, fig and roasted chestnuts. The finish was long and the mousse delicate.
A delicious representation of the estate, this wine has refreshing acidity, a delightful mineral characteristic and bursting w
Œnothèque 2020
Our library of previous Champagnes of the Month from 2020DECEMBER 2020
CHAMPAGNE RUPPERT-LEROY - 11,12,13...
Our “Champagne of the Month” for December is the excellent “11, 12, 13…” produced by Bénédicte and Emmanuel of Champagne Ruppert-Leroy. Based in the village of Essoyes in the Côte des Bar, once home to the artist Pierre-Auguste Renoir; this 4 hectare estate is relatively new with the first wines being produced in 2010.
The estate is farmed biodynamically; the four hectares consist of three plots: La Fosse, Martin Fontaine and Les Cognaux. La Fosse has red clay soil upon a limestone bedrock. Situated on the lower slopes the exposure is South/South-East, planted with both Chardonnay and Pinot Noir where the vines have an average age of 30 years. Martin Fontaine has white limestone soil, situated on the upper slopes with a South/South-East exposure and planted with Chardonnay. Here the vines have an average age of 20 years. Finally, Les Cognaux. Consisting of clay and grey marl soil, situated high on the slopes with a South/South-East exposure. It is planted with Pinot Noir where the vines average between 15 to 30 years old.
Such is Bénédicte and Emmanuel’s commitment to the environment they have developed their own eco-system on the estate with livestock and the planting of flora to encourage biodiversity. These plantings have enabled the couple to create their own biodynamic preparations.
In the cellar, old Burgundy barrels are used for vinification, only indigenous yeasts are used, alcoholic fermentation is spontaneous and th
NOVEMBER 2020
LES CHARMES DE VRIGNY BY CHAMPAGNE LELARGE-PUGEOT.
Our “Champagne of the Month” for November is the stunning “Les Charmes de Vrigny” produced by the lovely Lelarge family of Champagne Lelarge-Pugeot. Based in Vrigny, the family has been tending vines since 1799 and Dominique became custodian of this 8.7 hectare estate in 1985. The majority of the plots are in Vrigny, with parcels also located in Gueux and Coulommes-la-Montagne. The vinestock consists of 4.4 hectares of Meunier, 2.8 of Pinot Noir and 1.5 of Chardonnay; soils are predominantly chalk, clay loam and sandy.
In 2000, Dominique began the process of moving towards organic farming by ceasing the use of pesticides and dramatically reducing the use of fungicides and herbicides in the vineyard. Allowing natural ground cover - enherbement followed in 2005 and ploughing by horse was gradually introduced in 2009. In 2010, the family began the process of organic conversion which was completed and certified by 2015. This also coincided with the construction of a beautiful new cellar, expanding the previous facility that was built in 1998. Biodynamic trials began in 2014, the estate is now certified both Ecocert (organic) and Demeter (biodynamic). Beehives were introduced to the estate in 2016 and further biodiversity was encouraged in 2020 by the planting of a large quantity of trees throughout the plots which exist in the nearby woodland. Species included hazelnut, walnut, acacia, ash, hawthorn, birch and poplar. The fa
OCTOBER 2020
TERRE DE VERTUS 2009 BY CHAMPAGNE LARMANDIER-BERNIER. Our “Champagne of the Month” for October is produced by Pierre Larmandier of Champagne Larmandier-Bernier. Situated in Vertus at the Southern end of the Côte des Blancs, the 18 hectare estate has been farmed biodynamically for over 20 years.
Minimal intervention is intrinsic to the domaine’s ethos. In the vineyard, alongside natural viticulture, light ploughing is favoured in order to encourage deep rooting of the vines to further enhance the wine’s reflection of its terroir. In the winery, a pneumatic press is used to delicately press the grapes. This limits oxygenation and therefore reduces the quantity of sulphur that is required. Slight clarification of the juice is performed before vinification takes place in fûts and foudres. The domaine chose the tonnellerie Stockinger due to their favouring of a light toasting of the oak barrels. Natural alcoholic fermentation is carried out with indigenous yeasts – those present on the grape blooms. The wines spontaneously undergo malolactic fermentation and they are neither fined nor filtered. After 11 months on the lees, the wines are bottled.
“Terre de Vertus” is a blanc de blancs consisting of 100% Chardonnay, always a vintage; this edition being from 2009. It comes from the mid-slope of the South facing plot in Vertus called “Les Barillers”. It was bottled at the end of July and afforded a minimum 5 years sur lattes. Disgorgement is carried out by hand before being seal
SEPTEMBER 2020
NOTES BLANCHES 2012 BY CHAMPAGNE FLEURY.
Our “Champagne of the Month” for September is produced by Jean-Sébastien et Benoît Fleury of Champagne Fleury. The fourth generation, they have been creating wines from their 15 hectares in Courteron on the Côte des Bar since 2009. This pioneering domaine was the first in Champagne to adopt Biodynamic principles, beginning the process in 1989. In fact, the domaine have been forward thinking throughout their history having been the first to plant grafted Pinot Noir vines following the phylloxera crisis and the first in the Aube to market their own champagnes.
Courteron is located on the Seine valley in this beautiful part of the region. Here in the Côte des Bar, the clay-limestone soils date from the Upper Oxfordian and Kimmeridgian periods. The Fleury vineyards are located on the valley slopes, predominantly planted with Pinot Noir – 85%, with Chardonnay making up 10% of the holdings. The region’s historically favoured grape- Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris complete the set.
As stated, work in the vineyards is Biodynamic, completed by hand and of course, ploughing is carried out by horse. In the cellar a traditional press is used and this is gravity fed that in turn limits oxygenation of the juice and the need to combat this with additional sulphur. Indigenous yesats are used for fermentation and malolactic fermentation is allowed to occur naturally in a hands-off style of winemaking. Much of the base wines are aged in oak and dos
AUGUST 2020
L’ANGÉLIQUE 2012 BY CHAMPAGNE MOUZON-LEROUX.
Our “Champagne of the Month” for August is produced by Sébastien Mouzon of Champagne Mouzon-Leroux. The family has been winemakers since 1776, now controlling 60 plots spanning 7.5 hectares in the Grand Cru village of Verzy, located on the Grande Montagne de Reims.
Sébastien is clearly passionate about the environment and the eco-system within his vineyards. Certified by Ecocert, the domaine has been practicing Biodynamics since 2008; whilst also planting 500 trees and shrubs throughout the plots and introducing sheep and chickens for winter grazing. The plots have a North-Eastern exposure whilst the soil consists of calcareous clay and loam with a chalk sub-soil dating to the Lower Campanian period.
In the cellar, indigenous yeasts are used for alcoholic fermentation along with spontaneous malolactic fermentation – this is to limit the amount of sulphur required. Depending on the wine, there is either very little or no sulphur added. Both oak and stainless steel vats are used in the vinification process.
Cuvée L’angélique is a blanc de blancs consisting of 100% Chardonnay and it is a vintage wine coming from the 2012 harvest. Vinification was a combination of fûts de chêne (55%) and small stainless steel vats (45%). The wine was afforded 6 months on the lees and it was neither fined nor filtered. Aged for 56 months, disgorgement took place in October 2017 whereupon no dosage was added and the bottle was sealed with
JULY 2020
PUR MESNIL 2012 BY CHAMPAGNE FRANCK BONVILLE.
Our “Champagne of the Month” for July is produced by Champagne Franck Bonville from the village of Avize on the Côte des Blancs. The family domaine has been in existence since 1900 and Olivier is the fourth generation, having taken the helm in 1996. He has 77 plots at his disposal in the villages of Avize, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger and Oger.
Since 2011 the domaine has been working towards gaining HVE certification. In the cellar, slow fermentation is carried out in thermo-regulated stainless steel tanks. Olivier has created three mono-crus wines from the best plots in each of the three villages. All are vintage wines from the 2012 harvest and the second fermentation takes place under cork - sous liège. Consisting of 100% Chardonnay “Pur Mesnil” was born from three plots “Les Zailleux”, “Le Tilleul” and “Les Hautes Mottes”; harvested and pressed on 24th September. It was bottled in April 2013, disgorgement took place in April 2018 with a dosage of 2gl and sealed with a natural cork. Production was limited to 2500 bottles.
Tasted 17:10 Saturday 20th June 2020 (sowing day in the lunar calendar)
Characteristics: Pronounced intensity with primary aromas of chamomile, honeysuckle, acacia, fresh lemon juice, lemon rind, grapefruit, pineapple, lychee, mandarin, honeydew melon, peach, star anise, bramley apple skin, mint, cut grass, saline, iodine and chalk – reminiscent of seaside air! There are secondary notes of toast, bread doug
JUNE 2020
LES BACCHANTES 2009 BY CHAMPAGNE CORBON.
Our “Champagne of the Month” for June is produced by Agnès Corbon from the village of Avize on the Côte des Blancs. Whilst she has 6 hectares at her disposal it is the 1.1 hectares behind the family home in Avize that takes centre stage for this wine; the average age of the vines here is 43 years. Whilst her Avize wines have the finesse you would expect having been crafted from this famous terroir, they also pack some serious flavour. Agnès is a warm, open and gregarious person and it is fair to say that her champagnes suit her personality perfectly!
Les Bacchantes 2009 is playfully named after her father Claude’s favourite facial accessory and the moustache is depicted on the label. A vintage 2009 consisting of 100% Chardonnay from Avize, vinification took place in oak barrels where malolactic fermentation was allowed to occur. The wine did not undergo cold stabilization and was neither fined nor filtered; it was bottled after 10 months in July 2010. At this point the wine takes two different paths: 844 bottles were sealed with a Mytik cork and aged for 6 years and 7 months sous liège whilst the remaining 867 bottles were sealed with a crown cap. The wines were disgorged in February 2017 with 5gl dosage before being laid down for a further 15 months prior to release. Alcohol is at 12% abv.
The idea of sealing a bottle with a cork during the second fermentation is to allow some oxygen transfer to react with the wine. This mig
MAY 2020
VIRTUAL CHAMPAGNE WEEK 2020.
Our “Champagne of the Month” for May will follow a slightly different format than normal. Ordinarily we would have been in Champagne during April for the annual Champagne Week – “Le printemps des champagnes”. To in some way make up for the disappointment of missing the highlight of our year, we instead decided to hold our own virtual champagne week. Showcasing one cuvée for each day from one of the associations means that this month we have seven delicious wines to share with you.
Friday 17th April (fruit day)
Time – 18:15
Association: Les Fa’Bulleuses de Champagne
Producer: De Sousa (Avize, Côte des Blancs)
Cuvée: 3A
Certified Biodynamic, 3A stands for the three Grand Cru villages whose names begin with the letter ‘A’: Ambonnay, Avize and Ay. The assemblage consists of 50% Chardonnay from the Avize plot “Les Monts Chenevaux”. 25% Pinot Noir from the Ambonnay plot “Le Mont Bernard” and 25% Pinot Noir from the Ay plot “Les Cognets Robert”. The vines have an average age of 50 years. Vinification was a 50/50 split between 225 litre barrels and stainless steel, there was no filtering or racking. Two harvests make up the blend – 2010 and 2011, disgorgement occurred on 10/03/2014 with a dosage of 5gl and sealed with a natural cork. Alcohol is at 12.5% abv.
Appearance: Medium, gold.
Characteristics: Pronounced intensity with primary aromas of red apple, raspberry, pear, confit lemon, lemon rind, lemon juice, plum, nectarine, lavend
APRIL 2020
7C BY CHAMPAGNE JANISSON-BARADON.
Our “Champagne of the Month” for April is produced by Cyril and Maxence Janisson of Champagne Janisson-Baradon. Based in Épernay, they have 18 parcels across 9.5 hectares situated on the Côteaux Ouest d’ Épernay; overlooking the capital of Champagne. The brothers practice sustainable viticulture and are certified HVE – Haute Valeur Environnementale. In 2001, they planted almost 1 acre of the four historical varieties: Arbane, Petit Meslier, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris in their Tue Bœuf plot.
Cuvée 7C (sept cépages – seven varieties) consists of 15% each of Arbane, Petit Meslier, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris and Meunier with 13% Pinot Noir and 12% Chardonnay. As previously mentioned, the four historical varieties were planted in 2001 in the plot: Tue Bœuf. The Chardonnay, Meunier and Pinot Noir are from four plots: La Croisette, Martinet, Meltin and La Pie Danse, the oldest vines dating back to 1950. The soil of these plots is made up of brown clay with a subsoil of chalk. The grapes are pressed by plot and variety in a 4000kg pneumatic press after which; vinification takes place in stainless steel. Malolactic fermentation is blocked and the wine is not filtered. This being the first release of the cuvée, it is a vintage from the 2014 harvest, with bottling taking place on 31st August 2015. We do not have a date for disgorgement nor an exact dosage but would anticipate it being around 1-3gl. Just 1720 bottles were produced. Alcohol is at 12% a
MARCH 2020
LES SOLISTES INFUSION MEUNIER 2011 BY CHAMPAGNE JEAN-MARC SÉLÈQUE.
Our “Champagne of the Month” for March is produced by Jean-Marc Sélèque from the village of Pierry on the Côteaux Sud d’Épernay. Jean-Marc controls 9 hectares of vines across seven villages, three on the Côteaux Sud d’Épernay at Pierry, Moussy and Épernay, two in the Vallée de la Marne at Mardeuil and Dizy and finally two on the Côte des Blancs at Vertus and Boursault. The vine stock consists of 60% Chardonnay with 30% Meunier and 10% Pinot Noir.
At the helm since 2008, Jean-Marc set about making a number of changes to farming and production to realize his wine-making goals. These included: conversion to organic farming which in turn led to biodynamics. A state of the art new winery was recently constructed by the slopes of Pierry beneath Chavot. Here Jean-Marc’s new Coquard press enables a gentler pressing of the grapes which in turn allows for lower quantities of Sulfur to be added to the wines; cooler fermentation and longer lees contact. He has also increased his stock of oak barrels to allow more vinification in wood.
“Les Solistes” – Infusion Meunier”, as the name suggests (the soloists); is a vintage wine coming from the 2011 harvest, using a single grape variety – Meunier and coming from a single plot – “Les Charmiers” in Pierry which was planted in 1964. A rosé wine; it undergoes a 48 hour maceration before a 6 month fermentation in fûts de chêne where malolactic fermentation is prevented. 
FEBRUARY 2020
ORANGE SANGUINE 2016 BY CHAMPAGNE CHARLES DUFOUR.
Our “Champagne of the Month” for February is produced by Charles Dufour from the village of Landreville in the Côte des Bars. Charles has 6 hectares at his disposal which are located in Celles-sur-Ource, Essoyes and Landreville. Certified Biodynamic, Charles has been working his estate organically since 2013. When Charles began to work for himself, his father offered him the pick of the family plots. He explained to us that he didn’t necessarily choose those plots deemed to be the best but rather those with which he had a connection and which made him the happiest. Standing at the top of the lieu-dit “Le Champs du Clos” in the stunning valley system at the confluence of the rivers Ource, Arce and Seine and after tasting his vibrant wines, it is easy to understand his philosophy.
Charles tends to the vineyards himself, using herbal remedies to combat disease. In the winery only indigenous yeasts are used and vinification takes place in old Burgundy barrels or foudres. The wines do not undergo fining or filtration and there is no addition of sulphur. Malolactic fermentation is allowed and dosages are either negligible or non-existent. Charles is a charming and extremely talented young winemaker. His wines are always beguiling and downright delicious. Made in small batches and such is his reputation for excellence; these wines sell very quickly!
“Orange Sanguine” is certainly individual much like Charles himself. It is 
JANUARY 2020
PINOT NOIR 2004 BY CHAMPAGNE HUBERT PAULET.
Our “Champagne of the Month” to welcome in the new decade is produced by Olivier Paulet of Champagne Hubert Paulet. Olivier has around 8 hectares at his disposal all located within the village limits of Rilly-la-Montagne on the Grande Montagne de Reims. He currently produces around 25,000 bottles per year with his remaining grapes being sold. However, plans are afoot to increase production with building works taking place when we visited in April. This will enable Olivier the space and facilities to increase storage. Good news as his excellent wines are often in short supply!
We first tasted Olivier’s Pinot Noir 2004 when we visited at his domaine at the conclusion of Champagne Week 2019. We have long been fans of his unctuous cuvée Risléus and indeed his style is very much one of generosity with wines that are deep and full-flavoured. Extra aging is certainly one of the defining factors and dosages that are a little higher than perhaps is the norm among his contemporaries. Partial malolactic fermentation gives the best of both Worlds and 9 months vinification in fûts provides that rich deliberate oxidative style. Having said all that, the wines retain an abundance of minerality and therefore the balance is bang on. The Pinot Noir 2004 is still an extra brut with around 5-6gl. Disgorged in 2016 it has spent 11 years evolving on the lees. Less than 1000 bottles were produced. Alcohol is at 12% abv.
Tasted: 25th December
Œnothèque 2019
Our library of previous Champagnes of the Month from 2019DECEMBER 2019
LES JUTÉES 2011 BY CHAMPAGNE PERTOIS-MORISET.
Our “Champagne of the Month” for December 2019 is the cuvée “Les Jutées” produced by Champagne Pertois-Moriset from the village of Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, located in the Côte des Blancs.
Vincent and Cécile have at their disposal 20.7 hectares, 13.4 of which are Grand Cru Chardonnay plots. Sustainable viticulture is practiced and for the most part production is organic, certainly when conditions permit. No chemicals are used and their tractor is even electric powered. A new temperature controlled pressing centre was added to the domaine in 2009 which allows for the blocking of malolactic fermentation in the majority of fermentation vessels.
“Les Jutées” is a vintage wine coming from 2011 vintage and it is named after the South facing plot in Le Mesnil-sur-Oger from where it was born. It consists of 100% Chardonnay from vines planted 1979. The soil has high chalk content with subsoil consisting of marine fossils from the Kimmeridgian period. Vinified in stainless steel tanks, it spent 9 months on the lees before being bottled on 24th April 2012 prior to spending a further 5 years ageing in the bottle. It was disgorged on 1st December 2017 without dosage and sealed with a natural cork. Alcohol is at 12% abv. 4,123 bottles were produced.
Tasted: 21st November 2019 at 18:50 (fruit day in the lunar calendar)
Appearance: Pale, lemon.
Characteristics: Pronounced intensity with primary aromas of lemon, lemon rind, orange peel, blo
NOVEMBER 2019
L'INEFFABLE 2012 BY CHAMPAGNE MOUZON-LEROUX.
Our “Champagne of the Month” for November 2019 is produced by Sébastien Mouzon of Champagne Mouzon Leroux, based in the village of Verzy on the Grande Montagne de Reims. Sébastien controls 7.5 hectares of vines, consisting of approximately 50 plots; mainly located within the village limits. Practising sustainable viticulture since 1997, the domaine converted to biodynamics in 2008 before gaining certification in 2011.
The cuvée “Lineffable” is a vintage wine coming from the 2012 harvest and consisting of 100% Pinot Noir from the clay/limestone soil of Verzy. Vinification takes place in a mixture of wood and stainless steel with used fûts accounting for 55% of the blend. Only indigenous yeasts are used and the wine is allowed to undergo malolactic fermentation in order to limit sulphur usage. The wine is neither fined nor filtered. This champagne spent 6 months ageing on the lees with a further 5 years on racks. It was disgorged without dosage in October 2017 and sealed with a natural cork. Alcohol is at 12% abv.
Tasted: 29th October 2019 at 18:25 (flower day in the lunar calendar), bottle #1124.
Appearance: Pale, gold.
Characteristics: Pronounced intensity with primary aromas of blood orange, orange peel, red apple, quince, nectarine, raspberry, blackberry, cranberry, redcurrant, plum, rose, lavender, dried orange and white pepper and earthy. There are secondary notes of brioche, toast, short crust pastry, vanil
OCTOBER 2019
LES FOURCHES 2014 by CHAMPAGNE CAZÉ-THIBAUT.
Our “Champagne of the Month” for October is produced by Fabien Cazé of Champagne Cazé-Thibaut. Based in the village of Châtillon-sur-Marne, Fabien has 6parcels of vines amounting to 2.66 hectares in the village along with nearby Vandières. This is the right bank of the Vallée de la Marne famed in particular for its Meunier. Fabien also has Chardonnay and the plots are all worked sustainably, by hand and without the use of herbicides or pesticides. In the pressoir, grapes are pressed gently with the juice collected in stainless steel tanks via a gravity fed system. Spontaneous fermentation takes place with indigenous yeasts and a long, cold slow maturation process. Malolactic fermentation is not forced and the wines are not filtered.
Our wine in question is a single plot “Les Fourches”, positioned on a South facing slope in Vandières. The plot has sandy clay topsoil with chalky subsoil. Consisting of100% Chardonnay it is vinified in fûts de chêne and dosed at 2.5gl, it was disgorged on 24th January 2019 and sealed with a natural cork. The wine is born from the 2014 harvest despite not being declared as vintage.
Cazé-Thibaut “Les Fourches”
Tasted 17:45 Wednesday 25th September 2019 (fruit and sowing day in the lunar calendar)
Characteristics: Pronounced intensity with primary aromas of grapefruit, fresh lemon,tangerine, pineapple, mango, cantaloupe melon, quince, guava, papaya, star anise, passion fruit, green apple
SEPTEMBER 2019
SUBSTANCE BY DOMAINE JACQUES SELOSSE.
Our “Champagne of the Month” for September is produced by a man who needs little introduction to most enthusiasts - Anselme Selosse. Based in the village of Avize, Anselme along with wife Corinne and more recently their son Guillaume, has been in charge of the family domaine Jacques Selosse since 1980. Immediately upon taking the reins Anselme set about changing the way the domaine worked which was pretty revolutionary back then; lowering yields and beginning to work more naturally in the vineyards. This was at a time when champagne was a lot less concerned with healthy practices and being driven by quantity over quality.
Anselme studied viticulture in Champagne and then in Beaune, Burgundy and it is these later studies that had a defining impact on his winemaking. Anselme is first and foremost Champenois but begun making champagne in a Burgundy style. Prestige wines of Champagne in Anselme’s early years were defined by their vintage and not their location which was the case in Burgundy. These ideals are widespread among the Champagne region’s winemakers today but in Anselme’s early career he was a pioneer which led to many winemakers working with him and learning from his ethos - this ultimately kickstarted the meteoric rise in top quality grower-producers/domaines in Champagne. We certainly have a lot to thank Anselme for.
Another early experience was a trip to Jerez in 1972 to study sherry production; the process of course be
AUGUST 2019
A TRAVERS CELLES BY CHAMPAGNE ETIENNE SANDRIN.
Our “Champagne of the Month” for August 2019 is produced by Etienne and Anne Sandrin who are based in the beautiful village of Celles-sur-Ource in the Aube. Etienne and Anne took over the family domaine in 2006 and since 2015 have been working the vines biodynamically. They have just under 10 hectares at their disposal within the village. Including Etienne and Anne, there is a team of four who are responsible for all work in the vineyards as well as tending the vegetable garden, caring for their bees and picking plants to be used in producing herbal remedies for the vines.
The cuvée “A Travers Celles” is an undeclared vintage – coming from the 2014 harvest but without being labelled as a vintage wine. It consists of 80% Pinot Noir and 20% Pinot Blanc from three locations within the village limits.
Firstly, the Pinot Blanc for which the Aube was rightly famed comes from a single plot “Grille Besace” that was planted in 1961. It has an exceptional micro climate, planted on a stony plateau with a Western exposure it is cooled by fresh winds. We were surprised to find that there was only 20% Pinot Blanc in the blend as it is particularly evident.
The Pinot Noir comes from two plots, “Mouille Brant” which is planted on marl and limestone with a Southern aspect (looking towards Burgundy) and “Vieux Moulin” which is planted on white and brown clay with a North Eastern exposition. All of these plots bring something differen
JULY 2019
LA PUCELLE 2012 by CHAMPAGNE PERSEVAL-FARGE.
Our “Champagne of the Month” for July 2019 is produced by Benoist Perseval who is the fifth generation to be at the helm of Champagne Perseval-Farge. Located in the village of Chamery on the Montague de Reims, Benoist has 4 hectares at his disposal spread across 6 plots situated exclusively within the village limits. Pinot Noir accounts for the majority of vinestock with a good proportion of Chardonnay and some Meunier. Complementing the three traditional varieties is a little Arbanne, Petit Meslier and Fromenteau. The estate is farmed sustainably, resulting in it being awarded HVE certification. Champagne Perseval-Farge perfects the art of blending using a minimum of 40% of reserve wines in its blends and a further nod to tradition is the high percentage of oak used in vinification or aging and their traditional 4000kg Champagne press.
The Chamery sited parcel “La Pucelle” measures 0.5 hectares and was planted in 1985 with Pinot Noir. The plot has a North-West exposure and consists of sand and clay topsoil with sandy subsoil. As stated, the vines are farmed sustainably and the Chablis method of pruning is used.
Our version of “La Pucelle” is a Blanc de Noirs, consisting of 100% Pinot Noir with 60% of the blend coming from the 2012 harvest. 2012 turned out to be an excellent year despite its very difficult start. Minimum average temperatures in February were -4 degrees. The endless winter continued into April making
JUNE 2019
LES NOGERS 2012 by CHAMPAGNE DHONDT-GRELLET.
Our “Champagne of the Month” for June 2019 is produced by Adrien Dhondt of Champagne Dhondt-Grellet from the village of Flavigny, located to the East of Avize on the Côte des Blancs. The six hectare domaine began when Adrien’s parents decided to cease selling their grapes and began producing their own wines in 1986. The majority of their holdings are in Chouilly, Cramant and Cuis where the Chardonnay can be found along with some Pinot Noir from Avenay-Val-d’Or.
The cuvée “Les Nogers” is a vintage wine coming from the 2012 harvest and is named after the parcel from which the wine is produced. “Les Nogers” is located in Cuis at the Northern end of the Côte des Blancs where the soil consists famously of chalk. Yields are kept low and the plot is farmed organically and the average age of the vines is 55 years. Consisting of 100% Chardonnay, vinification takes place in stainless steel tanks where it undergoes malolactic fermentation. No filtering or tartaric stabilisation takes place and the wine has no chaptalisation. It was bottled in May 2013 and disgorged in March 2018 with a dosage of 2.4gl and sealed with a natural cork. Alcohol is at 12% abv.
Tasted: 22nd May 2019 at 18:40
Appearance: Pale, lemon.
Characteristics: Medium (+) intensity with primary aromas of lemon rind, lemon juice, grapefruit, orange peel, elderflower, acacia, sasparilla, pineapple, pineapple cubes, passion fruit, white peach, quince, Bramley ap
MAY 2019
L'OR DES BASSES RONCES 2013 BY CHAMPAGNE VINCENT CHARLOT.
Our “Champagne of the Month” for May 2019 is produced by Vincent Charlot from the village of Mardeuil which is located immediately to the East of Épernay. The commune is situated on the Côteaux d’ Épernay which is in turn a sub-region of the Vallée de la Marne. Vincent took over the family business in 2001 and has 4.2 hectares under his control. He is certified Demeter having been farming biodynamically since 2010. Vincent is a true Champagne character, proud and passionate about his winemaking, this passion runs from the earth to the bottle.
The cuvée “L’Or des Basses Ronces” is a vintage wine coming from the 2013 harvest. It takes its name from a single parcel in Mardeuil named “Basses Ronces” which means low brambles. This plot is 0.4 hectares and has shallow soil with chalk at a depth of 40cm. The wine consists of 100% Chardonnay which was fermented in small old oak barrels over a period of 11 months. Only indigenous yeasts were used and the wine did not go through cold stabilisation, filtering or malolactic fermentation. Bottled in April 2014 it was disgorged without dosage in August 2018 and sealed with a natural cork. Alcohol is at 12.7%abv and a total of 2414 bottles were produced.
Tasted: 23rd April 2019 at 19:00
Appearance: Pale, gold.
Characteristics: Pronounced intensity with primary aromas of honeysuckle, green apple, pear, quince, lemon juice, lemon zest, preserved lemon, banana, cantalo
APRIL 2019
MILLÉSIME 2005 BY CHAMPAGNE LAHERTE FRÈRES.
Our “Champagne of the Month” for April 2019 is taken from our œnothèque and was purchased during a visit to Laherte Frères in September 2013. The domaine, created in 1889 is located in the village of Chavot on the crest of the Côteaux Sud d’Épernay where the village church is clearly visible from the plains to the north. Since 2005, Aurèlien Laherte has been in charge of the 11 hectare domaine with 75 plots located in the villages of Chavot-Courcourt, Moussy, Vaudancourt and Mancy on the Côteaux Sud d’Épernay, Vertus and Voipreux on the Côte des Blancs, Le Breuil and Boursault in the Vallée de la Marne and Épernay.
Aurèlien takes a hands-off approach to winemaking to limit human intervention in an effort to produce wines which speak of their terroir. Work in the vineyards is carried out as naturally as possible to further enhance this ethos. In the winery, 80% of the wines benefit from fermentation and vinification in oak and there are two traditional 4000kg presses. As well as the Chardonnay, Meunier and Pinot Noir, the domaine also have plots of Arbanne, Fromenteau, Petit Meslier and Pinot Blanc.
The Millésime 2005 is a vintage wine consisting of 85% Chardonnay from Chavot and Épernay which has limestone and chalky soil with 15% Meunier from Chavot, Mancy and Vaudancourt where the soil is clay and silty with chalky subsoil. Natural alcoholic fermentation takes place in oak barrels of which 40% are new, six months aging 
MARCH 2019
FIL DE BRUME BY CHAMPAGNE JEAUNAUX-ROBIN.
Our “Champagne of the Month” for March 2019 is produced by Cyril Jeaunaux of Champagne Jeaunaux-Robin, based in the village of Talus-Saint-Prix on the Côte de Sézanne.
The family domaine was started in 1971 by Cyril’s parents whom he joined in 1999. Cyril now controls the 5 hectare estate located within the village limits. The vineyards have been farmed sustainably and under organic conversion with the 2018 harvest being the first one to be certified as organic. Meunier accounts for 74% of the holdings with Pinot Noir 23% and Chardonnay just 3%. This makes our “Champagne of the Month” even more interesting as it is a Chardonnay dominated blend.
Cuvée Fil de Brume takes its name from the mists which often shroud the Petit Morin valley blanketing the grapes. This geological feature means the valley has a slightly cooler climate with a higher risk of spring frosts which can be catastrophic for the young buds and subsequent harvest. The vines here are south facing and the soil a mix of clay and limestone with flint rocks. The western section of the vineyard has shallow soil with a larger concentration of flint whereas the eastern side has deeper soil and more sparsely scattered flint. Cyril’s vines have an average age of 40 years.
Fil de Brume is a non-vintage wine consisting of 80% Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Noir. The base wine, equating to 70% of the blend is from the 2014 harvest. Spontaneous fermentation takes place in a 
FEBRUARY 2019
ŒNOPHILE NON DOSÉ 2012 BY CHAMPAGNE PIERRE GIMONNET.
Our “Champagne of the Month” for February 2019 is produced by Didier Gimonnet who works alongside his brother Olivier at the family domaine of Pierre Gimonnet et Fils, based in the village of Cuis, located to the northern end of the Côte des Blancs. The family have been tending vines since 1750 with production of their own label champagnes beginning in 1935.
The brothers cultivate 40 parcels of vines across 28 hectares all of which are planted with Chardonnay and situated within the Côte des Blancs. Plots are found in the Grand Cru villages of Chouilly, Cramant, Oger and the Premier Cru villages of Cuis and Vertus; each village offering a different style to their wines.
Since 1955, when Didier and Olivier’s father Michel took over the family business and in doing so, burned all of the wineries oak barrels; vinification has taken place exclusively in small stainless steel tanks in order to express the purity within the fruit. Each plot is vinified separately and reserve wines are unusually held in bottles, a process which defends against oxidation. The wines are aged on their fine lees without bâtonnage and malolactic fermentation is carried out.
Cuvée Œnophile 2012 is a vintage wine expressing the characteristics of the villages Cramant and Chouilly – comprising 78.5% of the blend with 7.5% from Oger and 14% from Cuis. Taking base wines from multiple plots allows the art of blending to come to the fore. Extend
JANUARY 2019
NON DOSÉ BY CHAMPAGNE BONNET-PONSON.
Our “Champagne of the Month” for January 2019 is produced by father and son Thierry and Cyril Bonnet, the 5th and 6th generation of winemakers at Champagne Bonnet-Ponson. Based in the village of Chamery on the Petite Montagne de Reims, the domaine now controls around 10.5 hectares of vines in Chamery, Vrigny, Coulommes la Montagne and Verzenay.
The family can trace their champagne-making roots in the village back to 1862 when the domaine was created by Grégoire Bonnet. Successive generations continued to expand the business which included the need to move premises across the village as a result of Second World War bombing destroying the existing family cellars. The 1952 marriage of André to Monique Ponson – from a family of vignerons in Vrigny gave birth to the domaine Bonnet-Ponson and in turn expanded the family holdings. Cyril joined his father Thierry in 2013 after completing his œnology studies and working in the South-West of France as a maker of red wine. This also coincided with the domaine converting to organic viticulture.
The cuvée “Non Dosé” is a non-vintage wine consisting of 40% Pinot Noir and 30% each of Chardonnay and Meunier. The base wine is from the 2012 harvest with 40% of the blend being made up of reserve wine which is the result of perpetual blending (solera) from 2011/10/09. Approximately 35 plots of vines are used from the villages of Chamery, Vrigny and Coulommes la Montagne where the soils are chalk, l
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